Q. What hardware do I need to make professional recordings?

See the companion article on digital recording software

When you want to record music and get a good sounding result, you will want better quality and more flexible audio interfaces than the Mic jack on your computer.  Getting the audio interface outside of the noisy internal electronic environment of the computer’s case, and using higher quality Analog to Digital (A/D) and D/A converter chips both help record a better sound.

For single channel recording, the cheapest entry level would be products like
Griffin iMic $48
Alesis LineLink $68 and MicLink $68
Blue Icicle $72
Guitar-specific interfaces and software
USB microphones

These solutions will accommodate a single player / input at a time, and could be enough for podcasting, songwriting/scratch recording and narration work.

As soon as you need to record multiple players, microphones or instruments, or get to a more professional quality of recording, you would look for a multiple-input USB 2.0 or Firewire audio interface. Digital Audio Interfaces are available from these companies:

Alesis
Edirol
Creative / Emu
Focusrite
M-Audio
Presonus
Tascam
TC Electronics
RME
Yamaha
and others

Some of the interfaces incorporate mixers, so you can use them for mixing live sound at the same time as recording the performance. Be careful when evaluating interfaces, don’t assume a high number of inputs means you’ll be able to plug in a dozen microphones, because the input and output count often includes line and digital inputs – so for example an 18 input interface may have only four mic inputs and two stereo line inputs, plus 10 digital inputs (8 in TDIF format and 2 in S/PDIF format)

Audio hardware often comes bundled with software – Digital Audio Workstation (DAW) recording software, instruments, samples, effects and loops.  Often these are trial versions or junior versions of the full software, so read and understand exactly what you are getting with the bundle.

If you want to use a professional condenser microphone, look for an interface that has at least one balanced XLR mic input, with phantom power.  Many condenser microphones require the  preamp, mixer or interface to provide 48V power.

Hit the library and read up in back issues of magazines, or subscribe – they have hundreds of how-to articles and comparative reviews of software, mics and interfaces.

Sound on Sound, from the UK, probably the best how-to magazine on project studio recording.
Electronic Musician /EQ (these two magazines recently merged) lots of coverage of recording techniques and software.
Recording, good general magazine on recording
Keyboard focused on keyboards, but covers software and hardware recording articles as well
FutureMusic from the UK, focuses on electronic modern popular and dance music
Computer Music
from the UK. Often comes with free software on the cover CD.
MIX oriented more toward professional studio recording and live sound

There are guitar-specific programs and interfaces for recording electric guitar, and plug-in effects, software instruments, sample libraries and loop libraries which integrate with your DAW for constructing recordings.

Pay attention to your recording environment as well – if you are recording acoustic instruments or voice, the results are only going to be as good as your room sounds. A crummy sound in a room cannot be massaged into a great recording, Get the acoustic sound happening first.  I like the Studio Rescue article series in Sound on Sound magazine for practical tips.

See the companion article on digital recording software
Look for an upcoming companion article on mastering software
Look for upcoming articles on microphones and on compressors and preamps

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Q. What software do I need to make professional recordings?

When you are setting up a digital recording studio, the first question is to choose the Digital Audio Workstation software that you will base your studio around. That will drive the choice of the computer. A DAW combines recording of audio and MIDI sequences, with editing multiple tracks of audio, MIDI and software instruments and effects together.

The choice of software is critical, because the DAW is the hub of your whole studio. Each program sets up the interface and recording procedures in its own way, and learning to use the program is a significant investment in time. It’s a matter of personal preference whether you like the way the program organizes things and some DAW software bundles have specific features you may want, so you need to study reviews of the programs and try them in person if possible before committing to one.

If you are working with other people / studios it is important to consider whether you want to use the same software they do. Ask the people you are likely to collaborate with.  They’ll also give you their own feedback on the programs they use. If you are planning to work for the television or movie industry then Digidesign ProTools is almost mandatory, or Steinberg Nuendo.

Commercial DAW programs are available from:
Adobe: Audtion (Win only)
Ableton: Live! (Mac, Win)
Avid/Digidesign: ProTools, ProTools LE, ProTools M-Powered or Protools HD (Mac, Win)
FL Studio (Win only)
PG Music: RealBand (Win only)
Presonus: Studio One (Mac, Win)
Propellerhead: Reason and Record (Mac, Win)
Roland/Cakewalk: Sonar (Win only)
Sony Acid (Win only)
Yamaha/Steinberg Cubase and Nuendo (Mac, Win), Sequel (Win)
and others

For Mac only
Apple: Logic Pro, Logic Express, GarageBand (free with Macs and available for iPad), SoundTrack Pro
Mark of the Unicorn (Digital Performer)

Often, entry level versions of these programs are bundled with recording hardware like audio interfaces and MIDI keyboard controllers. These simplified versions allow you to try the interface, and then upgrade later to the full version.

Hit the library and read up in back issues of magazines, or subscribe – they have hundreds of how-to articles and comparative reviews of software, mics and interfaces.

Sound on Sound,
Electronic Musician /EQ,
Recording,
Keyboard,
FutureMusic,
Computer Music
,
MIX

You will also need to have a quality audio interface for getting the sound in and out of the computer (see this article on latency) , and good microphones and outboard electronics for recording acoustic instruments and voice. A good monitoring setup allows you to listen to your mixes critically and adjust them. See the companion article on digital recording hardware

There are guitar -specific programs and interfaces for recording electric guitar, and plug-in effects, software instruments, sample libraries and loop libraries which integrate with your DAW for constructing recordings.

Pay attention to your recording environment as well – if you are recording acoustic instruments or voice, the results are only going to be as good as your room sounds. A crummy sound in a room cannot be massaged into a great recording, Get the acoustic sound happening first.

And remember – no amount of software or hardware can ‘make’ you sound professional.  There isn’t a ‘turn mediocre into stunning’ button that you can push. Good sounding recordings are the result of talent, performance, imagination and hard work – having the musical vision and learning to use the tools at hand to realize your vision.

Posted in Computer Questions and Answers, Mac questions, Music recording, instruments, hard & software, Software, Windows questions | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Q. My program disappeared from my Mac’s Dock.

You probably inadvertently dragged the icon off the Dock. Don’t worry, you didn’t delete the program, only the alias to the program that was in the dock.;  Let’s take iCal as an example.

In the Finder, open the Applications folder and you will see iCal.

Click and hold on the icon of iCal and drag it down onto the dock.  Release the mouse button when the pointer is over the left hand half of the dock, and the OS will create a dock icon (alias) for the program. It doesn’t matter where you drop it, once it is there you can move the icon right or left on the dock by clicking and dragging it.

If you drag it up off the dock and release, it will disappear in a little puff of smoke – the OS interprets you dragging the icon off the dock as you didn’t want it anymore, so it deletes the alias.

All about the Dock: http://support.apple.com/kb/ht2474

If you accidentally drop the iCal program icon onto the desktop on the way to the Dock, don’t panic. Just click and hold on the iCal icon and drag and drop the iCal back into the Applications folder. Then try again.

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Q. What’s in my PC?

How can you tell what components are in your PC without taking it apart?

There are some system reporting tool programs that give a good snapshot of the components of the computer, and the software installed as well.  This is particularly useful if you need to find out the model of the motherboard that is in the machine, so you can find out what memory it needs, or source the correct BIOS or driver updates.

CPU-Z http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php
Belarc Advisor: http://www.belarc.com/free_download.html
SiSoft Sandra http://www.sisoftware.net/index.html?dir=&location=downandbuy&langx=en&a=
Speccy http://www.piriform.com/speccy

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Q. Where do downloads get saved?

When you download a file in a web browser, and it doesn’t ask you to specify a location for it, where does it go?

The answer is, either to the location on your hard drive that you have specified for downloads in your web browser program settings, or to the default location.

Default download locations:

Windows XP:  C:\Documents and Settings\{Your Username}\Downloads

Vista & Windows 7:  C:\Users\{Your Username}\Downloads

Mac OSX 10.5 and newer:  Users: {Your Username}: Downloads

Mac OSX 10.4 and earlier :  The Desktop   (Users: {Your Username}: Desktop)

 

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Q. Where can I get free software?

Commercial software is not legal to download for free, but there is a large amount of freeware, open source and shareware software available. I don’t recommend downloading from random websites or bittorrents, because downloads are a playground for virus writers to attach their malware to seemingly useful download files. I recommend sticking with some reliable software download sites.

You can search and find reliable shareware programs and read reviews of them at
Sourceforge http://sourceforge.net/
C|Net Download http://www.download.com (now includes the VersionTracker library)
TuCows http://www.tucows.com
PC World http://www.pcworld.com/downloads/downloads.html

Freeware is software that is given by the authors freely for use by others.  Shareware is software provided as a free download, but to continue using it after a trial period, the user is expected to send a fee to the author. Sometimes shareware has limited features or limits on how many times it can be run, with the full functionality unlocked only after it is paid for and a serial number registered.  Trialware is a name for limited time or limited functionality trials of commercial software. Nagware is  a name that has been used for shareware that puts messages in front of the user reminding them that they should pay the shareware fee.

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Q. I deleted one of the Apple applications from OSX

How do you reinstall one of the bundled Macintosh applications?

Let’s take iPhoto as an example.

First of all put in your installer DVD and look on it for a package called Optional Installs. Double click on that and you may be able to reinstall iPhoto from there just by check marking it and un-checking everything else.

Or reboot from the install DVD and when the Installer opens, choose Optional Installs, and ONLY choose the iPhoto software to install. Do not do a full install and do not choose Erase and Install.

Some of the applications like TextEdit do not appear in the Optional Install list.  For these you have 2 choices, carry on and do a full install (Archive and Install on OSX 10.4 and earlier, NOT Erase and Install) then it will be installed by default. It will preserve your User accounts and programs and data. This is reliable but will take a while and you will need to do Apple Software Update to update your OSX to its most recent patch level

Or you can download the program Pacifist, which can look inside of the Installer files on the DVD and extract just the program you need

http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/6812/pacifist

Pacifist Documentation http://www.charlessoft.com/Pacifist_Documentation/English/index.html

Video tutorial http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to-reinstall-textedit-preview-ical-address-book-mac-os-x-computer-401056/

If you are within 90 days of your purchase you can call apple’s Applecare hotline.
U.S. iPod and Mac technical support: 1-800-APL-CARE (1-800-275-2273)
Canada technical support: 1-800-263-3394

If you purchase AppleCare extended warranty, you get phone service for 3 years from date of purchase of the machine
http://www.apple.com/support/products/

Apple’s online help
http://support.apple.com/kb/index?page=search&src=support_site.home&q=iPhoto

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Q. What webcams work with Mac?

For Mac Minis and MacPros which don’t have a built in camera, you can add a USB webcam. However, webcams require drivers to operate, and most of those come from the factory with only Windows drivers.

Some cameras are supported by the UVC (USB Video Class) built into OSX since 10.4.3 (list in the UVC table below, from the maccam web site)

Other cameras are supported by the open source maccam software (list of 403 supported models)

Some cameras that use the Sonix chipset are supported by drivers downloadable from Sonix Keep in mind that new versions of OS X can disable drivers. Discussion and instructions at Insanely Mac

Support for different applications will vary.  iChat is notoriously finicky on camera support.

UVC Compliant web cams

Microsoft LifeCam NX-6000 depends (UVC)
Logitech QuickCam Pro 5000 (new – 2006) depends (UVC)
Logitech QuickCam Fusion (new – 2006) depends (UVC)
Logitech QuickCam for Notebooks Pro (new – 2006) depends (UVC)
Logitech QuickCam Orbit/Sphere MP (new – 2006) depends (UVC)
Logitech QuickCam Ultra Vision depends (UVC)
Creative Labs Live! Cam Optia (VF0270) depends (UVC)
Fujifilm FinePix E550 depends (UVC)
Bodelin ProScope HR depends (UVC)
Microsoft Xbox Live Vision (Xbox 360) depends (UVC)
Logitech QuickCam Communicate STX depends (UVC)
Logitech QuickCam Pro 9000 [QCAM-200S] depends (UVC)
Logitech QuickCam Pro for Notebooks [QCAM-200V] (2007) depends (UVC)
Logitech QuickCam Deluxe for Notebooks depends (UVC)
Creative Labs Live! Cam Optia AF (VF0280) depends (UVC)
Creative Labs Live! Cam Optia Pro (VF0380) depends (UVC)
Creative Labs Live! Cam Video IM Pro (VF0410) depends (UVC)
Microsoft LifeCam VX-7000 depends (UVC)
Microsoft LifeCam NX-3000 depends (UVC)
Logitech QuickCam Fusion Ultra depends (UVC)
Cisco Vt Camera II depends (UVC)
Logitech QuickCam Communicate Deluxe depends (UVC)
Logitech QuickCam Orbit/Sphere AF depends (UVC)
Hercules Dualpix Exchange depends (UVC)
Targus USB 2.0 Micro Webcam (AVC05EU) depends (UVC)
TerraTec TerraCam X2 depends (UVC)
Creative Labs Live! Cam Chat IM (VF0530) depends (UVC)
Philips SPC 1300NC depends (UVC)
Philips SPC 1000NC depends (UVC)
Philips SPC 620NC depends (UVC)
Philips SPC 520NC depends (UVC)
Philips SPC 525NC depends (UVC)
Philips SPC 530NC depends (UVC)
Creative Labs Live! Cam Video IM Pro (VF0260L4) depends (UVC)
Creative Labs Live! Cam Optia AF (VF0560) depends (UVC)
Microsoft LifeCam VX-5000 depends (UVC)
Pico Instruments iMage [PIKCU03W] Camera works (UVC)

 

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Q. Windows on my new PC says it isn’t genuine

Windows and other Microsoft programs like Office will run for a while without being activated / registered, but then they will stop and insist that you activate them. You should have an activation key on a label on the back, side or bottom of your computer.  If you activate Windows and type in this key exactly, Windows or Office should now continue working.  Microsoft Activation FAQ

Occasionally the online activation fails, or tells you that Windows is not genuine.  In that case, call your nearest Microsoft Activation centre and they can manually activate it over the phone.

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Q. How do I know this online company is legitimate?

Do not give your personal information or credit card information to any website that you are not sure about.

Google the company name, URL and address to see if there have been complaints on online forums about the company or any other company at that address. For googling the URL, put quotations around it “unknownshop.com”.  Keep in mid that shady operators often post phony positive reviews or “shill” posts of their own site on forums and review sites. Pay more attention to the negative reviews.

Check the Whois information on http://www.whois.net/ for the domain of the site.
Look to see what date the domain was first registered. A website registered only in the past couple of months would be a danger sign – especially if they claim to have been in business a long time.
Look up the registered owners’ address, company name and phone at an online phone directory like 411.com to see if they have a landline at the address; also check to see if the owner’s address is phony.  If the ownership is stealthed or protected by a privacy service, thats  a potential red flag (however there are legitimate reasons for keeping registration private too.)

Look up the store name on http://www.resellerratings.com

Look up the business name or URL at the Better Business Bureau http://www.bbb.org

Click on the security certificates and badges, they should link to a verification page at the security company. If they don’t link, or if they go to a page on the sellers site, then the certificates might be phony.  Do the pages that you enter your information on have HTTPS: and the lock symbol in your browser?  Don’t enter personal or financial information on a page which is not SSL secured.

Be aware that judging the quality of products based on an online picture is particularly difficult. Read the description carefully – you will not get more than what is explicitly described.

  • What is the manufacturer’s model number (not the store’s own SKU number)
  • What exactly is included, and not included with the purchase? (if it doesn’t say that an accessory is included, don’t assume it is)
  • Is it actually new and unopened, or is it “open box” “refurbished” “re-certified” “like new” or “B-Stock” (goods that have been returned or are cosmetically defective)
  • What is the warranty?
  • Where do you have to go for warranty service?
  • Is it a manufacturer’s factory warranty, or is the warranty covered by the seller only?  Seller-only warranties indicate that the seller is not an authorized dealer, or the product is “gray-market” (imported from another country against the manufacturer’s policies)
  • Is the warranty valid in your country? Some companies disallow warranty service on goods that have been imported from another country.

Read the fine print.

  • What are the return and refund policies if the product is defective or not as described?
  • Who pays for return shipping?
  • Is there a restocking or service charge on returns?
  • Do you get a refund to your charge card or only store credit?
  • Where does the product ship from? Does the seller have their own stock, or is it provided by a “Drop Ship” wholesaler (makes delivery , quality and warranty issues harder to deal with). Out of country suppliers are particularly risky.

More info:
BBB Consumer tips: http://us.bbb.org/WWWRoot/SitePage.aspx?site=113&id=9c2460f1-4c8d-415a-a55d-2da54c5d4f40

Craigslist, Used{city}.com and kijiji are for local, face to face cash transactions only. Companies from out of town advertising products on your local classified should be suspected of trolling for people to be scammed. Individuals from other towns (or countries) offering to buy your item by mail are almost always scammers.  http://www.craigslist.org/about/scams  Do not accept online or non-cash payment for goods picked up in person.

PayPal offers buyer protection, but only in specific circumstances. There is no buyer protection for services, only for tangible goods. Never use PayPal for face to face transactions, only for shipped goods with a signature on delivery. PayPal disputes have to be filed within 45 days – do not let a seller string you along with promises past the deadline. File the dispute right away, you can always cancel the dispute if the goods show up.

For mail order goods, you should insist on shipping by courier or registered mail, with insurance and a signature on delivery. This protects you against loss or damage in transport, and is your proof that a product arrived (or didn’t arrive).  Do not send money by Western Union or other wire transfer service – despite the seller’s assurance of how safe it is, the money cannot be canceled or refunded once you send the transfer.  Western Union does not offer an escrow or delivery confirmation service, no matter what the seller may say. If the other party suggests using some unknown ‘safe’ escrow service you can be 99% sure the service isn’t safe and the object is to rip you off.

Scamadviser http://www.scamadviser.com/ is a source for reported scam sites.

Spyware Blaster blocks the URLs of known malware sites from your browser http://www.pcworld.com/downloads/file/fid,23106/description.html

McAfee Site Advisor flags websites security risks as you browse: http://www.pcworld.com/downloads/file/fid,62594-order,1-page,1/description.html

MyWOt (Web of Trust) allows you to search for reviews of particular sites http://www.mywot.com/

Hints for safe web browsing https://computer-answers.ca/2011/internet-networking/q-is-there-any-internet-security-threat-if-i-only-visit-reputable-sites/

More info on Scams

BBB Scam Source: www.bbb.org/canada/scam-source/

RCMP Scam and Fraud page: www.rcmp-grc.gc.ca/scams-fraudes/index-eng.htm

Canadian Anti-Fraud centre: www.antifraudcentre-centreantifraude.ca/english/home-eng.html

ABC Fraud quiz: www.abcfraud.ca/

Financial and investment fraud – BC Securities Commission:  www.befraudaware.ca/fraud-warning-signs?gclid=CKSr7uWFvrQCFQ_hQgodJ3IAMA

Posted in Internet and Networking, Security | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Q. How can I secure my Mac?

What? Secure my Mac?  Why?
Mac owners sometimes exist in a bubble of avoidance – believing that since Mac OS X is more resistant to viruses, they don’t have to worry about a thing to do with security. Bubbles inevitably burst, unfortunately. There are many ways other than viruses to lose data or privacy. One important recent one is through Trojan Horses that can attack a Mac through security holes in third party software such as Java, Microsoft Word and Adobe FlashPlayer.

Your behaviour makes or breaks security efforts.
Message #1
is that social engineering is still the most effective vector for malware. Anything that you explicitly permit to run or install as an Admin level user of your Mac is going to bypass any security measures or good intentions.

  • So do not click on that unknown link from an email, even if it seems to come from a friend.
  • Don’t OK the installation of a “video codec” that pops up when you want to watch an online video.
  • Resist the temptation to install free search bars, widgets and other apps unless you know for sure what they do and that they do not have a hidden agenda.
  • Stay away from free photos, music and other media offered through unkown websites or through emails.
  • Don’t download or install anything which you do not know 100% where it came from or the reason it needs to be used.

Be vigilant for phishing and hijacking:

  • Always log onto financial or shopping sites manually by typing into the Location bar, never from a link in an email or a web page.
  • Look at the URL in the Location bar to see if you arrive at the domain you expect for that institution (your search or link may have been hijacked. There is malware that can redirect your Google or Yahoo search to unknown sites  Redirect and DNSChanger Trojan info), and
  • look for the HTTPS and the lock icon on any page you are entering personal data or passwords.

Ignore bogus warning messages: Don’t respond to unexpected popup messages while you are using a Web browser. There are a number of companies that will put up a window saying that your machine is infected or has serious problems to try to scare you into downloading their ‘repair software’ or ‘antivirus software’. If in doubt, or if you can’t dismiss the window without clicking on one of their buttons, then Force Quit the browser, or if all else fails, Shut Down the Mac.

One type of malware will put up a message that a “Self Signed security certificate from Apple Inc. requires you to click Continue” – quit the browser instead. More information here.

Don’t log into public WiFi hotspots unless you are confident you are logging into a legitimate network.  An easy hack is for someone to go into a cafe with a laptop and open a public hotspot called “RestaurantWiFi” or “CafeHotSpot”. As the owner of the router, they can then capture and see all of the internet traffic from anyone who logs into their network.

Other information:

Something the NSA document doesn’t address – attend to the physical security of your data.  All bets are off if a stranger has your machine or data storage device. More laptops, phones and storage devices (like USB memory ‘keychain drives’) are lost and stolen than are ever hacked into. Opportunistic snooping by co-workers and acquaintances is more common than network snooping.

  • Use a cable lock on a laptop in a public place (including a university dorm),
  • don’t let a portable machine be unattended in or out of its carrying case,
  • encrypt the data that you put on USB memory keychain drives,
  • put a screen lock on smartphones and tablets, and
  • don’t walk away from a machine while your account is logged in – put it to sleep with a password required to wake up, or log out of your account altogether.

To summarize the software steps you can take to be more secure,

Use Apple’s Software Update – keeping your OSX, Safari, Java and related software (including other Web browsers and Adobe Flash Player  and Adobe Reader software) continuously up to date is the best defense against potential viruses or exploits. Just because there are no live Mac OSX viruses and only a handful of trojan horses doesn’t mean there won’t be more in the future.

Apple, Microsoft and Adobe continuously add anti-malware features to their software. If you want to force Apple Software update to get the latest malware definitions, go into System Preferences: Security: General and un-check the box for “Automatically update safe downloads list” then re-check the box and close System Preferences.  If you want to check the date of the latest update, follow the instructions here at MacWorld or download this little Safe Download app from MacObserver.  Keep your Microsoft Office software up to date as well with AutoUpdate.  If you are using the outdated Office 2004 or Word 2004 or 2008, these have known vulnerabilities, you should seriously consider replacing the Microsoft software with the latest 2011 version.

Note: Never use an updater from an unknown website or from an email link. Malware writers can package their installer into phony updaters for Adobe Flash Player and other programs.  Always get your updaters and installers from the manufacturer’s official website.

Turn off automatic login: Open the Accounts pane in System Preferences.
Disable Automatic Login and User List: Click on “Login Options.” Set “Automatic login” to “Off.” Set “Display login window as” to “Name and password.”

Disable guest account, remote access and sharing: Select the Guest Account and then disable it by unchecking “Allow Guest to log in to this computer.” Uncheck “Allow guests to connect to shared folders.”  Unclick everything you don’t absolutely need in System Preferences: Sharing.

Turn off Airport (WiFi) and Bluetooth if you don’t need them. Not only will your machine be more secure, a notebook or smartphone battery will last longer.  System Preferences: Bluetooth and System Preferences: Network: Airport (or use the icons at the top right of the screen)

Create another Standard (non-Admin) User account for day to day logging in when you are surfing or reading email or using the machine in public. Use an Administrative User account with its ability to install software only when you need to install or update your computer.

Use Private Browsing in your Web browser
Firefox: Tools: Start Private Browsing
This will delete history and cookies when you exit the browser session.

In the System Preferences Security pane

  • Require password “5 seconds” after sleep or after the screen saver begins
  • Disable automatic login – force yourself to re-enter your password each time
  • Use secure virtual memory – this encrypts the virtual memory file on the hard drive which otherwise may contain accounts and passwords
  • Disable Location Services (if present)
  • Disable remote control infrared receiver (if present)

Consider turning Location Services off on your iPhone or iPad as well. Think about how badly you really want Google Maps, Foursquare or Yelp to know where you are every minute. You’d be surprised the number of apps which request to know all about your location.

Encrypt your data – on a portable machine, consider using FileVault to encrypt your data. Keep in mind that this will cause trouble if you forget your password, and makes recovering a crashed hard drive harder.  There have been reports of people losing their data with FileVault, so use with caution.  As an alternative, use the open-source TrueCrypt to create encrypted folders on hard drive and on USB storage devices.

Enable your firewall: In the System Preference: Security: Firewall tab, click “Start” to turn firewall on. Next, click on “Advanced…” and enable “Block all incoming connections.”  If you are using and AppleTV or file sharing with other Macs, you will have to modify these settings. http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1810

In Safari, turn off the “Open safe files after downloading” setting in the General tab. You do not want downloads to automatically open.

Restrict Javascript: Even better, switch to using FireFox as your browser and add the NoScript plug in which allows you to selectively permit or prevent Java and Javascript from executing. Consider installing AdBlock Plus for Firefox, Thunderbird and Chrome or Safari Adblock.

Turn off Java in your brower if you are not using it (and chances are, you are not)

Anti-virus scanners: There are some anti-malware programs available for Mac OSX, here is a backgrounder, and a review of 5 programs  Note: I recommend that you do not download or install the program called MacKeeper.

AVComparatives paper comparing Mac antivirus programs (PDF)

osxdaily.com tips on securing a Mac

Windows Viruses and Malware: Remember that if you install Windows in Bootcamp or a virtual machine environment, you will need to take anti-virus and anti-malware precautions like any other Windows user https://computer-answers.ca/category/computer-questions/windows-questions/viruses-malware/

More information on securing a Macintosh, written by an analyst from Kapersky Labs is here.

Posted in Computer Questions and Answers, Mac questions, Security | Tagged , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Q. How can I make my machine run faster?

Actually, this isn’t about making a machine faster, but about removing the things that are slowing the machine down.

Before we get started, make sure you have a current backup of all of your data files.

First step is to make sure you have adequate RAM memory.  For XP, 1 GB is the mimimum and for Win 7 and Vista 2 GB of RAM is recommended – but double those figures would be better as a starting point. You will need a 64-bit operating system and 64-bit compatible motherboard to go beyond 4 GB.  For most people running Win 7 64 bit, 8 GB is the practical memory they should be at, higher for people doing graphics, photo, video or audio production.

For a laptop, make sure you have it plugged into the wall and the power saving settings are set to maximum performance, not maximum battery life. Many machines have different Energy saving / Performance profiles for AC and Battery.  Check your Control Panel. Even for desktop machines, some processors have adjustable speed vs. power settings.

Sweep your machine clean of viruses and spyware. See https://computer-answers.ca/category/computer-questions/windows-questions/viruses-malware/

Make sure the machine’s fans and air vents are clean and free of dust or obstructions. Overheating can cause slowdowns and component failure.

Run Microsoft Disk Clean Up (All Programs > Accessories > System Tools)

Then, reduce the number of processes that it runs at startup – scanners, toolbars, automatic updating things, IM clients, indexing, whatever.  Everything that runs in the background makes your machine a bit slower.  Here’s how to check what is running www.computer-answers.ca/2011/computer-questions/windows-questions/q-what-is-running-on-my-pc/

Delete the shovelware – all the useless software that manufacturers put on the hard drive of a new machine. A small program, PCDecrapifier http://www.pcdecrapifier.com/ can help in removing the excess programs that manufacturers load your hard drive up with.

To change Startup programs, use the System Configuration utility.
Control Panel > Classic View > Administrative Tools > System Configuration utility
In Vista, Control Panel > Programs > click Change startup programs.

Or, get the Autoruns program (free) to turn off startup items http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/bb963902.aspx

Remember that Windows requires a bunch of different startup resources, so don’t delete them unless you know what they are. Research them here http://www.windowsstartup.com/wso/search.php

Turn off the eye-candy, like the interface shadows and zooms. Set your Control panel for maximum performance.

Make sure your operating system, video and motherboard drivers and other system software are up to date – check the manufacturer’s web sites for the latest drivers.

Clean out caches with CCleaner http://www.ccleaner.com
or Glary Utilities: http://www.glaryutilities.com/

Delete old programs that you never use with Add/Remove Programs.

Use the Task Manager window (Control Alt Del) to see what processes are running on your machine and what’s taking up processor power.

If your hard drive is nearly full, either delete a bunch of stuff and defragment, or consider installing a new larger, faster hard drive.  Hard drives slow down dramatically as they fill up, and performance is hit badly by an almost full drive.  Here’s how to check what is consuming the space on your drive https://computer-answers.ca/2012/computer-questions/windows-questions/q-my-hard-drive-is-running-out-of-space-why/

and here are links with information and hints.

http://www.extremetech.com/article2/0,1558,5155,00.asp

http://www.microsoft.com/atwork/getstarted/speed.mspx

http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/setup/maintain/improveperf.mspx
http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/setup/expert/northrup_restoreperf.mspx

http://windowshelp.microsoft.com/Windows/en-US/help/83ec0ffe-ee04-4d53-8b87-25d1f05c954e1033.mspx

If none of this works, put in your Windows disk and do a Repair installation of windows. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/315341/

Check the SMART status of your hard drive to see if it may be a failing drive
http://www.computerhope.com/jargon/s/smart.htm
http://www.ariolic.com/activesmart/hard-disk-smart-status.html
If you are having long delays of many seconds or minutes on everything you do, this could be a sign of a failing hard drive, get your data backed up immediately and install a new hard drive.

Cloning a Windows 7 installation to a new hard drive

Replacing a drive in a Windows Laptop 

As a last resort, consider backing up your data and reinstalling Windows.  This will mean reinstalling all of your programs from their original disks, and reapplying updates, so it is a body of work, but it can result in speed gains on systems that have been running and accumulating junk for a long time

To reformat a machine requires that you have the original Windows disk or the Restore disk that came with your machine, or that you have a machine with the restore files in a hidden partition.  Contact your machine’s manufacturer if you do not have restore disks.
More information here.

Format and install Windows XP http://lifehacker.com/software/windows/geek-to-live-how-to-format-your-hard-drive-and-install-windows-xp-from-scratch-157578.php

Format and install Windows 7 from DVD: http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/1649-clean-install-windows-7-a.html

Internet performance:

If your internet access is slow while on WiFi wireless, check the signal levels, and try plugging directly in by Ethernet cable. Poor signal levels, interference from other machinery, and an overloaded WiFi router can all make for poor performance.  Make sure that both your machine and the router are capable of Wireless N performance, and that you don’t have any Wireless B or G devices on the network. Unless your router is a true dual-band model, adding just one B or G device will bring the WiFi router performance down to B or G levels for everybody.

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Q. I can’t read new Word docx files in my older Word

With Office 2007 (Win) 2008 (Mac) and later, Microsoft has moved to new file formats for documents – .docx instead of .doc for Word, .xlsx for .xls in Excel, .pptx for .ppt in PowerPoint.  Older versions of Office applications cannot open the new format files.   Microsoft has released some updaters that give the ability to open the new format files in Office X Mac, Office 2000, Office 2002, Office 2003 and Office 2004 Mac

Win: Office Compatibility Pack – Instructions and download here
http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/word-help/open-a-word-2007-document-in-an-earlier-version-of-word-HA010044473.aspx

Mac: Open XML conversion tool
http://www.microsoft.com/mac/downloads?pid=Mactopia_AddTools&fid=0C323A12-6385-4666-AD39-A9516A8EDA14#viewer

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Q. Help I spilled liquid on my machine

Liquids and electricity don’t mix.  Keep drinks, potted plants, etc. away from your computer.

The first thing if there is a spill is: Immediately turn the computer off, unplug it (or remove the battery if it is a laptop). Wireless keyboards and mice also have their own batteries which should be removed.

If you leave the battery in, there is still current flowing in the machine and that’s what you DON’T want to happen when there is water to short between circuits.

Turn the keyboard or laptop upside down. Blot up all the water you can reach with a paper towel.  If it is a bad spill, disassemble the machine to give access to blotting up the water.

Now leave the machine in a warm place for at least 48 hours until it is thoroughly dry. DO NOT TEST IT before then to ‘see if it works’ – by applying current to the circuits you may be administering the coup de grace.

http://tech.yahoo.com/gd/saving-your-laptop-after-a-spill/153194

After that it depends on what type of liquid it was.  Anything with sugar (pop, milk) or acids (pop, tea) or salts will leave a residue on the components which can create a short, or eat away at the connections (like a battery that leaked in a flashlight). Sugars can also gum up keyboards and switches.  If you have a bad spill of this type of liquid, the machine will need to be disassembled and carefully washed and dried with distilled water and/or alcohol.

Some people recommend putting the keyboard or machine in a bag with rice, under the assumption that the rice will absorb the moisture.  I’m not a fan of this, it’s impossible to stop the rice dust and fragments from getting into the keyboard.  I think putting it in a warm place with good airflow (like on top of the fridge or hot water heater, maybe with a fan on it) is preferable, unless you live in an environment with 100% humidity.

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Q. A DVD came with my new Mac, do I need to install it?

No, you don’t need to do anything with the discs – OSX and the standard applications are already installed on any new machine. When you start it up, it will play a short intro video and then lead you through the registration process and internet setup, so get it plugged into the network, or be ready with the wireless network password first before starting it.

You will probably need to download some OS updaters as soon as it is set up. This is done automatically, or through the Software Update item under the Apple menu.

Here’s what comes on the OSX DVD (and installed on the Mac’s hard drive) http://www.apple.com/macosx/what-is-macosx/apps-and-utilities.html

In a few select instances such as if you are programming or setting your machine up as a web server, you may have to install tools from the DVD. But this does not affect 99.9% of Mac owners.

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