Audacity is a great open source audio editor program, available for Windows and Macintosh http://audacity.sourceforge.net/
Here are some learning resources for it
Audacity Tutorials
http://audacity.sourceforge.net/manual-1.2/tutorials.html
Wiki
http://wiki.audacityteam.org/wiki/Category:Tutorial
Removing vocals with Audacity http://wiki.audacityteam.org/index.php?title=Vocal_Removal
Mixing two songs together http://www.ehow.com/how_5061510_mix-songs-audacity.html
Excessive bandwidth use could indicate a user who is downloading or uploading movies, torrents of pirated software or streaming video, or it could be malware on the machine. Either way it can impact network performance for everyone, could result in higher ISP monthly charges, and could put the company at risk from malware being brought into the network or at legal risk for copyright violations.
Check the user manual for the router that handles the network. There should be options for logging usage, and you can analyze the log to see which IP address is consuming the most bandwidth. Then you need to check the IP address against the client machines. Better quality routers will have extensive options for reporting and restricting bandwidth use, and restricting the Internet destinations that client machines can access.
If you don’t have access to router logs, you may be able to use a network sniffer on a machine in the network to capture information about your network traffic http://www.wireshark.org/about.html
Photoshop (as well as other high-end graphic and video production software) is a heavy user of hard drive access. The speed of the hard drive in a machine and the way that hard drive use is organized can have a major impact in performance, especially with large files. Photoshop makes extensive use of Scratch disk files, which are temporary files that are continually created, read and changed as you work on images. Scratch files are part of Photoshop’s virtual memory management.
This is separate from the Swap or Virtual Memory files that the operating system (Windows or OSX) uses for itself. The more RAM memory you have, the less the OS has to hit its Swap files for data, which is good, because RAM is many times faster than a hard drive. Another thing that is important – make sure you are running a 64-bit operating system and a 64-bit compatible version of Photoshop, so that Photoshop can access all the memory it can – under 32 bit operation it is limited to 2.1 – 3.0 GB (Mac 32 bit) or 1.7 – 3.2 GB (Windows 32 bit) of application memory.
To repeat, running 64-bit and getting as much RAM as you can afford – up to about 12 GB – is the most important step. Above 12 GB, more RAM can still help but the marginal benefit declines. So – on to hard drives:
There are two technologies that speed up disk access, RAID striping (using two interleaved drives as one drive for faster access) and SSD (Solid State Drive, which can be much faster to access than a rotating hard drive). Setting up a SSD as a boot drive for the computer is a popular hobbyist upgrade. It will make booting times faster, which is enjoyable, but may be a bit of a waste for Photoshop. Here’s why:
The key with Photoshop is to put the different hard drive functions on different drives. Instead of spending money RAIDing hard drives or installing an ultra-fast boot drive, first install separate drives for Boot drive, Data drive and Scratch drive.
Why? Because we want to eliminate contention for control of the drive head. The worst case scenario is to have everything on one hard drive – Imagine, as Photoshop is dealing with a data file, wait, the OS has to take over the drive to write a Swap file. This causes a delay as the drive head is swung over to the swap file area. Wait, now Photoshop has to read from its Scratch – another delay to reposition the head. Wait, now Photoshop has to read some program code to run a filter, but wait, first it has to write some changes to the data file… you see how the delays add up as one drive read/write head has to be cook, waiter, cashier and dishwasher all at once.
By splitting up the tasks among multiple drives, each of the drive heads can stay on-task and be reading, writing and repositioning efficiently without interruption from other duties.
Your scratch drive should be your fastest drive and it should have nothing on it but the scratch space for Photoshop (and NOT the Windows swap file). Since the scratch function only needs a few 10’s of GB, you can partition the drive, give the first (fastest) partition to scratch, and you can use the 2nd partition for backing up your system or data.
Then, get your Photoshop data files off of the boot drive. Data should be on a drive by itself. A large, high speed hard drive like a Western Digital Caviar Black drive is a good choice here.
So far you have three drives – your original Boot drive, your Scratch drive and your Data drive. If you want a bit more speed, you could also create a dedicated drive for the Windows swap file, or move the program files off your Windows drive. These will help a bit but are not essential.
Once you have divided the tasks between different drives, then you can think of RAID or SSD to further speed it up. Personally, I think a SSD makes more sense as a scratch drive than a boot drive, because you boot only once per day, but scratch is constantly writing small files – where the close to zero latency of the SSD will help – and SSDs are generally smaller in capacity, which is fine for a scratch drive. A downside of using a SSD as a scratch is that you might wear it out – SSD flash memory is only good for a limited number of writes. Granted, that limit is in the millions, but constant use as a Scratch drive may wear it out in a couple or three years. Think of it as an investment, plan to spend $200 every three years on a new Scratch drive.
Then if you still want to RAID, create a RAID 0 Striped array on the Data volume, where you are reading and writing very large files, and the increased sustained throughput will win. The larger a file is, the less important the initial rotational latency is and the more important that sustained throughput is.
But if you do set up a RAID 0, you -must- have a rock solid backup regimen, because you have increased the risk of failure. If one of the two striped RAID drives has a problem, you lose ALL of the data on both drives.
Adobe: Assigning scratch drives http://help.adobe.com/en_US/photoshop/cs/using/WSfd1234e1c4b69f30ea53e41001031ab64-748aa.html
Performance optimization: http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/404/kb404439.html
This all makes sense for a MacPro or a Windows tower machine, where you have multiple drive bays to play with, and you can install an eSATA card for high speed external drives. If you have a Windows laptop, an iMac or a MacBook Pro, your options are more limited. If you want to run with the big dogs, you need the MacPro or a tower PC.
If you are working with a notebook, an iMac or MacBook Pro the USB 2.0 interface is just not up to the task of handling a scratch drive or a fast data drive. Firewire 800 is faster, but you will lose a step or two compared with the SATA drives. Some models of Windows notebook, the 17″ MacBook Pro and earlier models of 15″ MacBook Pro have ExpressCard/34 slots, which you can get an eSATA interface for. This is faster than Firewire 800, but a little finicky. There is great promise with the new Thunderbolt interface on the latest MacBook Pro and iMac models, with SATA level speeds available to hard drives once products start shipping. I can see a Thunderbolt SSD scratch drive being a popular item.
Connecting two networks through the air at long distances (100’s of meters to several km) is possible with low power WiFi equipment as long as you have line of sight between the two locations. It requires choosing the correct antennas and amplifiers for the job. This is for point to point transmission, not for a broad coverage ‘hot spot’. The intention of the antennas is to focus all of the radio power into a narrow beam, rather than radiating it 360 degrees.
About WiFi Antennas
http://www.radiolabs.com/Articles/wifi-antenna.html
Homemade long-haul WiFi
http://creationfactory.blogspot.com/2007/06/long-haul-wifi-links.html
http://creationfactory.blogspot.ca/2008/03/long-haul-wifi-new-developments.html
Companies that have long range antennas and outdoor WiFi products
TPLink: http://www.tp-link.com/products/productDetails.asp?class=wlan&pmodel=TL-WA5210G
Hawking: http://www.hawkingtech.com/products/index.php?CatID=32
Engenius http://www.engeniustech.com/
C Crane http://www.ccrane.com/antennas/wifi-antennas/wifi-bridge-kit.aspx?RefID=WS050900DX000000#.UCK3t01lS2U
Inveneo http://www.inveneo.org/wifi_access_point
CA World WiFi http://www.caworldwifi.com/Frequently-Asked-Questions.html
This PDF article outlines using WiFi over hundreds of km.
If two machines are connected to the Internet but not on the same network, you can use Remote Desktop, VNC or other programs to connect them, or create a Virtual Network (VLAN) or Virtual Private Network (VPN)
Remote access software
Remote Desktop Comparison http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_remote_desktop_software
RDP definition http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Remote_Desktop_Protocol
LogMeIn https://secure.logmein.com/
GoToMyPC http://www.gotomypc.com/remote_access/remote_access
VNC http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Virtual_Network_Computing
RealVNC (open source) http://www.realvnc.com/products/free/4.1/index.html
Go to your manufacturer’s website, support, drivers and downloads section, and download all the latest drivers for your specific model and install them. Run all the Windows (or other OS) updates.
When you do a restore, you are resetting the machine to the out-of-date software and drivers from the disk (or restore partition) from when it was first made, so part of the restore process is to then reinstall all the latest drivers, for the machine and for any peripherals (scanner, printer, etc).
If it is a desktop machine, you could also turn it off, open the case and unplug and reattach the cables going to the drives and unplug and re-seat the PCI-e cards, sometimes a loose connection is all it is.
If it is a new machine, it will be under warranty, so you can call the manufacturer’s support phone line or online chat service for assistance.
If you can’t find the drivers for some devices, there are websites that will help you
WinDrivers: http://www.windrivers.com/
NoDevice: http://www.nodevice.com/
Softpedia: http://drivers.softpedia.com/
DriverGuide: http://www.driverguide.com/
The questions you always have to ask when installing a new video card in a desktop or tower machine are:
Keep in mind most inexpensive Dell, HP and Compaq machines have 300W (or lower) power supplies. Mid-performance and above Radeon and GeForce cards require at least 400W – 500W.
So to consider a card, you may have to replace the power supply of the computer as well.
You would need to check whether the machine has the space and the mounting screw holes correct for a standard ATX power supply. (Some HP, Compaq, Dell and many slim line machines use smaller non-standard power supplies which are difficult to find replacements for).
For notebook computers, almost all notebooks have non-upgradeable video.
Comparisons of graphic cards
http://www.gpureview.com/
http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/graphics-cards,1.html
http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/
Benchmarks for specific games: http://www.guru3d.com/article/vga-charts-spring-2011/
Notebook graphic chip performance chart: http://www.notebookcheck.net/Comparison-of-Laptop-Graphics-Cards.130.0.html
First you need to to a Power Manager reset PMU reset) on your machine
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1431
Then recalibrate the battery
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1490
Keep in mind that batteries last from one to three years and they steadily lose capacity. Apple’s criteria is the battery should retain 80% charge after one year of use, and one year should have no more than 300 recharge cycles. If a new Apple battery is under 300 cycles and less than 80% capacity before 1 year is up, it may be eligible for warranty.
Coconut Battery is a little application that gives you more information about your battery’s health (Requires OSX 10.5 or higher) http://www.coconut-flavour.com/coconutbattery/
You can’t know when the actual web pages were created, but you can look up in the WHOIS domain records when the domain was originally registered.
Go to http://whois.domaintools.com/ and enter the domain name of the site.
If you suspect that your disk is having trouble, make sure you back up your data files to another drive or to DVD-R as soon as possible. One symptom of a failing drive is long pauses to do anything. Another is any unusual clicking noises coming from the drive.
Check the SMART status of your hard drive to see if it may be a failing drive
Mac:
SMART status is displayed in the Disk Utility screen
Windows:
http://www.computerhope.com/jargon/s/smart.htm
http://www.ariolic.com/activesmart/hard-disk-smart-status.html
Disk testing utilities,
Mac: Disk Utility, in the Applications: Utilities folder
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1782
Windows
Seagate Seatools http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/support/downloads/seatools
Western Digital Lifeguard Tools http://support.wdc.com/product/download.asp?lang=en
Run a disk check:
Windows: Go to the Start menu and choose command prompt. This will take you to the DOS command prompt where you can use the chkdsk /f command to try to repair the hard drive. At the C:> prompt type CHKDSK /F {return}
Mac: Hold the Shift key down through startup to start in Safe Mode: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1564 This will take much longer than a normal startup.
(Starting in Safe Mode will automatically run the fsck disk maintenance routine.)
If you have a problem with your hard drive, the first thing is to stop using it. If possible, boot your computer from a different drive. You can remove the problem hard drive from the machine, install a new one and install your OS, and then try recovering data from the problem drive and/or running drive and partition repair software. At this point you are not too concerned about saving your OS on that problem drive, but getting all your data (including your email files, which are often buried in your User folder). Once you have backed up your data you can work on repairing the data structure of the drive, assuming it has no physical breakdowns. Its easier backing up data from a drive if it is not also the boot drive of the machine.
Recovering files:
https://computer-answers.ca/2011/computer-questions/windows-questions/q-my-computer-is-broken-and-i-need-the-data/
Your new router will have a different WPA password and SSID (network name) compared to your old router. Have you set the new router up? Each WiFi machine will need to reconnect to the new router and have its settings adjusted to match the new router’s settings.
First step, follow your new router’s manual.
Netgear Router setup wizard video http://kb.netgear.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/12873
Belkin easy setup page http://www.belkin.com/networking/wireless-routers/easy-setup/ – Router support http://www.belkin.com/us/support-article?rnId=6939
You need to set up a WEP, or better yet a WPA encryption on your wireless network so you are not leaving it open to all comers. WEP is weak security, only use WEP if you have a Nintendo or other device that doesn’t support WPA
You log into your router using the a web browser, type 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1 (for different models of routers, this address will be different). This is easiest from a computer that is attached by a cable. You should have an admin password. If you have never set one, then it will be the default NetGear username “admin” and password -blank- or “1234”
(other brands use user -blank- and password “admin”)
http://kb.netgear.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/112/~/securing-your-wireless-network%3A-wpa%2Fwpa2-%28recommended%29
Go to the wireless setup portion of the controls, select WPA Personal, and enter a long passcode that you can remember. Write this down in the inside cover of your router user manual!! you will need it to log in from your wireless computers.
Consult the help screens of the administration interface for specifics or read the manual.
When you are done. change the router’s admin password to something other than the default. Write this down!!
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,4149,1277020,00.asp
Now, set your Wireless machine’s WiFi settings to match the password and SSID that you used for the router.
Vista http://kb.netgear.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/95/kw/configure%20client
XP http://kb.netgear.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/111/kw/configure%20client
Win 7 http://kb.netgear.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/13267
Have you pressed the key that controls screen mirroring? On Toshiba notebooks it is usually Function F5, or consult your manual.
On Windows 7, hit Windows-P or right-click on the desktop and choose Graphic Properties.
Or go into Control Panel and set up the display properties Appearance: Display: Connect to an external display.
www.howtodothings.com/computers-internet/how-to-connect-an-external-monitor-to-a-toshiba-laptop-computer
Make sure that the source input on the external display is switched to the input that the computer is cabled into.
Go here to file a PayPal dispute
cms.paypal.com/cgi-bin/?cmd=_render-content&content_ID=security/buyer_protection_resolution
You have 45 days to file a dispute. Follow the instructions on the PayPal Buyer Protection pages. Do not let the seller talk you into waiting longer than 45 days, even if they swear they shipped it. You can always cancel a dispute if it does arrive, but you are out of luck entirely on day 46.
If it was a service (not goods) that you purchased you may not be eligible for purchase protection, because PayPal has no proof whether the service was delivered or not. cms.paypal.com/us/cgi-bin/?cmd=_render-content&content_ID=ua/UserAgreement_full#13.%20PayPal%20Purchase%20Protection.
Paypal is ONLY secure for goods that can be packed in a box and delivered with a courier waybill and a signature on delivery. Do not use PayPal for face to face transactions or for delivery other than by signed courier receipt.
First, do you have an iTunes Store account? If you don’t, you need to open iTunes and create an account, and there will be an option for entering the gift card in the creation process. A credit card is not necessary if you have a gift card.
support.apple.com/kb/ht2731
support.apple.com/kb/ht2534
If you already have an account, open iTunes, log in if you have to, then go to iTunes Store, click and hold your account name at the top right to drop down a menu, choose Redeem. Thats where you put in the gift card code.
support.apple.com/kb/HT1574
Interesting audio article from CBC Radio : Spark on iPhone accessibilty for blind users
www.cbc.ca/spark/2011/04/repeat-of-spark-125-may-1-4-2011/
using the VoiceOver feature from Apple support.apple.com/kb/HT3598
Nora Young interviews Austin Seraphin, who says what makes it work is the tight integration between the iOS, Applications and the VoiceOver technology.
Yes, as long as a motherboard has a SATA connector it will support any SATA drive up to 2 TB.
Here are the support documents on this motherboard
www.intel.com/p/en_US/support/highlights/dsktpboards/d945gcl
Your board has
” Four SerialATA (SATA) channels (3.0Gb/s),via the ICH7, one device per channel”
So it can support up to four SATA drives. You are good on the Seagate Barracuda 1 TB SATA hard drive
