Q. What is a Rootkit?

A rootkit is a persistent virus that is much harder to remove than a normal virus because it gains privileged access to the machine, modifies the system at a low level and cloaks its visibility. Once established, rootkit infections often evade normal antivirus scans.

The first line of defense against rootkits is to never install any software that you don’t know that the source is reputable. The classic mode of infection is to download a movie or other internet content, and get a popup saying that you need to install a player or a ‘codec’ before you can watch the materials.  When you grant permission for the software to install, you are permitting the rootkit full access to infect and modify your machine.

The term rootkit is usually understood to mean malware – Sony infamously deployed a rootkit as a copy protection to prevent some Sony published audio CDs from being copied to a computer digitally. Sony met some severe backlash from consumers and was forced to withdraw the copy protection and settle with the Federal Trade Commission in the USA.

One family of rootkit malware results in Google and Yahoo search links being redirected to different websites than you intended.

Anti-Rootkit tools
Sophos: http://www.sophos.com/products/free-tools/sophos-anti-rootkit.html
GMER: http://www.gmer.net/
TDSSKiller: http://support.kaspersky.com/viruses/solutions?qid=208280684

Posted in Computer Questions and Answers, Security, Viruses and malware, Windows questions | Tagged , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Favorite: TrueCrypt open source encryption

Here’s something that makes me shudder – when I hear someone complain that they lost their USB memory ‘keychain’ drive, and then to hear them say “yeah, now I’m out $30 to buy a new one”.  It’s not the money, silly, it’s the data.  How many documents with private information are on that drive, open for reading by whoever finds it?  Backups of your email contact list?  Last month’s archive of your company’s customer or prospect data?  That handy word processing file that has all those file and web passwords that you can never remember?  Yikes!

The best investment you can make is free – the open source encryption program TrueCrypt http://www.truecrypt.org/ . It is cross platform Win/Mac/Linux so you can encrypt and password protect a folder (up to 8 GB on OSX or NTFS drives, or 3.9 GB on a FAT32 volume like a USB stick)  and then unlock and read it on another machine.  The only stipulation is that you have TrueCrypt software installed on whatever machine you are reading it on.

There are some hard drives and USB keychain drives that include AES encryption, but they are mostly dependent on Windows software and are not cross-platform.

Please, make backups of your data, certainly. But protect any sensitive data that is on any kind of portable storage with a program like TrueCrypt.

Posted in Favorites, Free stuff, Hard Drive News, News, Security | Tagged , , , , , , | 1 Comment

iMac 2011 models, the end of upgrading?

Apple has thrown a curve ball at iMac owners with the latest 2011 “Thunderbolt” models.  The 2011 models use pins on the SATA power connector to transmit SMART temperature information from the drive to the iMac motherboard (previously, the temperature data was transmitted through a separate cable).  This information is only provided by hard drives that have firmware built in to format the data the way Apple expects.  If you install an otherwise-identical hard drive, the fans of the iMac will rev up to maximum speed and the machine will not pass the Apple Hardware Test.

A few other wrinkles – there are inconsistent reports on the Web of owners having success with some Western Digital Caviar Black drives (as well as failures with the same model) and with a Seagate Barracuda XL 3 TB drive.  SSDs installed in the main drive bay likewise seem to be inconsistent, some OCZ Vertex 3 models and Intel 510 SSD models have been reported to work without issue.  What we don’t know is how the drives that worked differ from those that did not – possibly the firmware revision of the drive?

If you are installing a non-compatible hard drive, one workaround for the fan speed issue is to manually control the fans with software such as hddfancontrol or SMC FanControl This requires monitoring the temperature, and adjusting the RPM of the fans manually.

The iMac has one hard drive bay, and one bay for a SSD drive.  If the iMac is ordered from Apple without a factory SSD, then it will not have the mounting bracket or SATA cables for mounting the secondary SSD.  Adding the SSD to the iMac as a second drive is not for the faint of heart, it is a difficult procedure that takes a lot of time, and risks voiding the Apple warranty.  Here is a site with iMac teardown instructions.  Some people are using Velcro as an alternative to the Apple SSD mounting bracket. Another challenge is to source the SATA data and power cables that will fit into the tight confines of the case.

We’ll be updating this post as more information comes out.

Posted in Computer Questions and Answers, Hard Drives and SSD, Mac questions, News | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Hybrid SSD/hard drive setups

Lately there has been a choice to make between conventional hard drives and flash based Solid State Drives (SSD).  The decision boiled down to speed vs. cost vs. capacity.  SSDs can be blazingly fast, but they are expensive, and limited in capacity. To get a SSD in the 480 – 500GB capacity is a staggering $1,600 or thereabouts (by comparison, 1 TB hard drives are under $70, for double the capacity). So, people have been figuring out just how little space they can get away with for their machine’s main hard drive, in order to get an affordable SSD.  Then there is a lingering suspicion about the reliability of the NAND Flash memory in SSDs, which have a limited number of times they can be written to before the cells degrade.  These limits are in the millions of writes, and SSD manufacturers provide extra, unused space (over-provisioning) that can be used to substitute for unreliable cells.

A new development promises to let computer owners have their cake and eat it too.  Hybrid SATA drive controllers can twin a smaller SSD with a large hard drive, to give the size and security of a hard drive, at 80% of the performance of a SSD drive.  Incorporated by Highpoint on a PCI-e card, and on some new Intel motherboards from Asus and others, the controllers allow you to gain speed without breaking the bank.

HighPoint is not the first to introduce a hybrid SSD/HD RAID controller, but their card is an affordable upgrade to existing PCs, and you can use your choice of hard drive and SSD. HighPoint’s RocketHybrid product release PDF.

HighPoint Hybrid SSD/DH card

HighPoint RocketHybrid 122x Series Card

HighPoint’s RocketHybrid HBA’s combine the superior performance of an SSD, with the cost effective, high-capacity value of a SATA HDD, into a single storage device know as a Hybrid Drive. Hybrid Drives are optimized for high-performance computing, and deliver 80% of the SSD’s performance boost, with 100% of the HDD’s capacity. The Smart Hybrid Storage Solution provides the perfect blend of performance and capacity, without sacrificing affordability; satisfying the needs of gamers, digital image editors and their power-hungry application.

Intel Z68 infographic

Intel Z68 Express Chipset

Intel’s Smart Response technology uses their BD82Z68 Platform Controller Hub on new Z68 motherboards to use a SSD of up to 64 GB as a cache for the hard drive, addressed as one volume.   HotHardware article.
Like Seagate’s Momentus XT laptop drives (which contain a 4 GB SSD cache) it takes time for the cache to ‘learn’ which your most-frequently used files are, so it gets gradually faster as you use it.  The other implication of this is that it won’t have much if any effect on newly written data, as it hasn’t had a chance to be cached yet.

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Q. How do I get a Word document into Photoshop so I can save it as an image?

Word documents are not images. Photoshop is an image editor – we’re talking apples and oranges here.  We’ll take it as a given that you will only get one page at a time into Photoshop.

If you want an image of a Word document, you can print the Word document to PDF. Choose your page range in the Print dialog so that you don’t print the whole document if it is a multiple page file.

Macintosh: capability is built-in  File: Print: PDF: Save

Windows: If you don’t own Acrobat Pro, then get the free CutePDF for Windows, http://www.cutepdf.com, install it, and then choose CutePDF as your ‘printer’

This saves the PDF to your drive. Then open the PDF document with Photoshop and it will convert it to a raster image,

– or take a screen shot of the document

On Mac, open the Word doc on your screen, hit Command-Shift-4 which will turn the cursor into crosshairs, and drag a rectangle around the area you want to copy. A file will be saved to your Desktop as “Screen shot {date} at {time}” (OS 10.6) or as “Picture{##}” (earlier versions). Open that file in Photoshop and have at editing it.  http://guides.macrumors.com/Taking_Screenshots_in_Mac_OS_X

In Windows when you have the document open in Word, hit Alt -PrtScr, which copies it to the clipboard. Open a new Photoshop document, and then Paste the screen shot into the Photoshop document.
Vista and Win 7 Snipping tool http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snipping_Tool

If you simply want a few words in a particular font saved as an image, it may be just as easy to type them into Photoshop with the Text tool. The font should be available to all programs running on your machine if it was installed properly.

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Kingston introduces USB 3.0 keychain drives

Kingston has released new USB 3.0 models of their DataTraveller USB memory drives. The USB 2.0 interface imposes limits on data transfer rates of storage media; USB 3.0 raises the bar on flash drive performance.  The drives are backwards compatible with USB 2.0 (a motherboard with USB 3.0 ports, or a USB 3.0 add-in card is required for USB 3.0 performance)

Here is Kingston’s press release:

DataTraveler Ultimate 3.0 Generation 2 with higher speed

Kingston’s DataTraveler Ultimate 3.0 Generation 2 (DTU30G2) features the latest technology for USB Flash drives, making it ideal for early adopters who want to take adv antage of all the performance improvements offered by USB 3.0 right away.

This drive is the perfect solution for easily storing and quickly transferring all your large documents, hi-res photos, HD video, and more. It’s exceptionally fast and easy to let you keep data with you wherever you go.  USB 3.0 offers the same ease-of-use and plug and play capabilities as previous generations of USB technologies but with a performance increase and better power management. This USB 3.0 drive is backwards compatible with USB 2.0.

Kingston USB 3.0 DataTraveller driveDTU30G2 is backed by 24.7 tech support, a five-year warranty and legendary Kingston® reliability.

Great uses for USB 3.0

  • HD video
  • System and data backup
  • Adobe applications (Photoshop, Premiere, Lightroom)
  • AutoCAD
  • Movie downloads
    …and many more

Features/Specifications:

  • Capacities – 16GB, 32GB, 64GB
  • Requirements – system with USB 3.0 port
  • Fast –data transfer rates for USB 3.0 to 100MB/sec. read and 70MB/sec. write; USB 2.0 = 30MB/sec. read and 30MB/sec. write
  • Backwards compatible – with USB 2.0.
  • Simple – just plug into a USB port
  • Practical – durable casing with a solid lanyard loop
  • Dimensions – 2.90″ x 0.87″ x 0.63″ (73.70mm x 22.20mm x 16.10mm)
  • Operating Temperature – 32° to 140°F (0° to 60°C)
  • Storage Temperature – -4° to 185°F (-20° to 85°C)
  • Guaranteed – five-year warranty

DataTraveller Ultimate DTU30G2/ product PDF file

 

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Q. Why is there a time delay when I am recording sound?

The time lag between playing and the sound coming back out is called Latency — it is the time required for you interface to digitize the sound, buffer it, the computer to read the buffer, process it, write the results back to the buffer, the interface to read the buffer, and finally to convert it back to analog for you to hear it.

You can never completely eliminate latency, but you can bring it down to livable delay times.
http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/apr99/articles/letency.htm

http://www.harmony-central.com/articles/tips/dealing_with_latency/

To adjust latency, you need to choose a good quality driver for the sound interface, then change the buffer size. It is also dependent on having a good quality audio interface card. If you are using onboard audio or a basic Soundblaster card, you’ll have fewer options.
Look up the manuals of your audio interface and recording software for detailed instructions.

First of all, go into the Audio settings or Preferences of the software, and choose the ASIO driver for your interface (not the WDM or other driver)

Make sure your audio software and interface drivers are up to date. If your sound interface did not come with an ASIO driver, try asio4all  http://www.asio4all.com/

Then change the buffer size.  It is expressed in bytes, you probably have it set to 1024 or more.  Reduce this to 128 or less. You’re shooting for a latency of 20 ms. or less, which should be tolerable as a lag time to your playing.

The trade off us that when you reduce the buffer, you reduce latency (because it takes less time to fill the buffer) but you increase the chance that your computer processor won’t be able to keep up, and you may get audible glitching in your audio. You need to strike a balance between audio consistency and latency.

You can try reducing the amount of things you are asking the computer to do at the same time — turn off all unneeded programs, use only the minimum EQ, compression, instruments  and effects software while recording (you can add them later in processing the track or mixing), minimize the number of audio tracks you have playing as you are recording. Do you really need to have the whole set of orchestra tracks playing as you sing, or can you get away with a barebones backing track?  If you do have to have a complex track playing with effects and software instruments, consider ‘freezing’ a mixdown of those tracks to a stereo audio ‘scratch’ track for playback, and then turn off all the individual effects and instrument tracks.  Frozen audio tracks take way fewer resources to play back.

If you have selectable bit rates and bit depth for recording, then reducing the rate and depth will reduce latency problems.  16 bit / 44.1 KHz sampling is way easier for the computer to process than 24 / 96, so you can reduce the buffer size.

The other thing you can do is to reduce the buffer size while you are recording live, and the increase the buffer again for when you are mixing or working ‘inside the box’. Latency doesn’t cause any problems when you are purely playing back tracks or mixing down.

The ultimate way to reduce latency is to get a faster computer and higher quality audio interface

You can take a headphone monitor of the instrument you are recording before it enters the audio interface (and some interfaces have a ‘zero latency’ monitoring output). By splitting the signal in analog, before it gets digitized, you won’t have any latency in hearing your playing. Granted, you also won’t hear any of the effects or EQ that the computer recording software is applying to the sound, but you should be able to hear well enough to lay down the track.  If you need to, apply some effects to your live monitor signal outside of the computer to give you a basic idea of how it will turn out.  This is where a flexible mixer comes in handy.

Lastly, if you are relying on the computer to supply the effects, distortion, compression and EQ on your guitar or instrument sound, consider using outboard hardware effects to create the sound before recording it.  You will lose some flexibility in modifying the sound later, but the load on the computer will be lessened greatly.  Look at amp simulation and effects boxes from Line6, Johnson, Boss, Digitech, Korg and others.  A bonus to this is that you can monitor the analog signal while you are playing, with no latency.  If your track ends up out of time with the computer tracks, no problem, you can shift it forward or back on the timeline, or apply the software’s latency compensation features to line it up again.

Posted in Computer Questions and Answers, Music recording, instruments, hard & software | Tagged , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Q. How do I remove the singing from a song so I have just the instruments?

Removing vocals from a stereo track (or conversely removing instruments from a track, leaving the vocals) is difficult to impossible.
To do it properly really means having access to the original multi-track recording studio tapes or files. When performers have backing track tapes, they have had specialized mixes made from the original ‘stems’ in the multitrack.

You can do a few things with EQ and with center canceling — assuming the vocal is panned dead centre.  However neither of these is terribly effective, and both will damage the sound of the instruments as well.

Equalizing the track to remove the frequencies where vocals mostly reside may remove vocals but it will leave a big hole in other instruments that also generate the same frequencies.

Center canceling is where you take one channel of the stereo pair and invert its phase. Then any waveforms that appear identically in the left and right channels (that is, anything panned to 12:00 dead center) will be cancelled out.  Problem is, that will kill the bass and kick drum and any other instruments that are also in the center.

http://www.ethanwiner.com/novocals.html

You can try some editors like Audacity (free, Win and Mac):  http://audacity.sourceforge.net/
Instructions: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqXiKYG3J7M
http://audacityteam.org/wiki/index.php?title=Vocal_Removal
http://audacityteam.org/wiki/index.php?title=Tutorials

AnalogX (free, Win only): http://www.analogx.com/contents/download/audio/vremover.htm

DJ Twist&Burn ($39, Win only) http://www.acoustica.com/dj-twist-burn/

Or commercial programs like Adobe Audition, Bias Peak, and others.

Posted in Computer Questions and Answers, Mac questions, Music recording, instruments, hard & software, Software, Windows questions | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Q. My external hard drive won’t mount

Try replugging the cables and connections first before concluding that it has failed – half of all ‘failures’ are problems with connections.  Or shut down the machine, turn off the hard drive. Now turn on the hard drive first, let it come up to speed, and then boot the computer.

There are 3 main possibilities if your external drive still won’t mount:

#1 is that the logical structure of the drive is damaged. The good news is that this can often be fixed with software, and although some files may be lost, there is a good chance of recovering most of them.

#2 is that the enclosure (powersupply or the bridge board or its cable connections) is bad.  In that case you are in luck because if you can remove the drive mechanism from the case, and put it in a different external USB case, it should work. (this may however void the manufacturer’s warranty if it was a finished-goods external drive)

#3 is that the drive mechanism itself has failed. In that case you may be up a creek.  If the motor isn’t spinning the drive, or if the drive’s controller board has burned out, then nothing short of repair by an expert is going to help.  Data recovery firms will fix it, but for a fee of $400 – $ several thousand.

If your problem is logical (#1)
— that is the drive spins properly and shows up on the USB bus but there are no accessible partitions or data —
then you may be able to recover data from it, or repair the logical damage.  Programs like SpinRite from GRC labs and Ontrack utilities might repair the damage, programs like DataRescue PC, Pandora and others might recover data even if the directories and file structure are damaged.
Windows
SpinRite http://www.grc.com/spinrite.htm
Diskinternals Partition Recovery http://www.diskinternals.com/products.shtml
OnTrack software http://www.ontrackdatarecovery.com/file-recovery-software/
Pandora Recovery http://www.pandorarecovery.com/
DataRescue PC http://www.prosofteng.com/products/data_rescue_pc.php
Easeus has a variety of recovery tools, from free to professional: Download.com link
Recuva (free) http://www.piriform.com/recuva
Restoration (free) http://download.cnet.com/Restoration/3000-2094_4-10322950.html?tag=mncol

Recovery Review – list of recovery software http://recovery-review.com/

Mac:
Repair
Apple’s DiskUtility http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1417
Alsoft DiskWarrior http://www.alsoft.com/DiskWarrior/
TechTool Pro http://www.micromat.com/
Recovery
MiniTool lMac http://mac.powerdatarecovery.com/
DataRescue http://www.prosofteng.com/
FileSalvage (Mac) http://subrosasoft.com/OSXSoftware/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1

Article on recovery http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Data_recovery

There are some websites that have tools you can try, and then if it looks like it can recover some data, you have to pay to do the recovery

VirtualLab http://www.binarybiz.com/

If all else fails, you can send your drive to a data recovery service, it will cost hundreds or thousands of dollars depending on what the problem is.
If you are going to send it out for recovery, the less fooling around with software you do with the drive on your own, the better.

Seagate Data Recovery http://services.seagate.com/consumer_solutions.aspx
DriveSavers http://www.drivesavers.com/
ActionFront http://www.actionfront.com/
TotalRecall http://www.totalrecall.com/

Posted in Computer Questions and Answers, Hard Drives and SSD, Mac questions, Windows questions | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Favorite Sites: ehMac for Canadian Macintosh owners

If you are a Macintosh owner or fan in Canada, then ehMac http://www.ehmac.ca is a must-bookmark site.

The ehMac forum has discussions about Macintoshes, Mac troubleshooting, software, and opinions, plus wide ranging threads about everything Canadian, from the weather to politics to hockey.

Posted in Favorites, Mac questions, Media and Commentary, Web News | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Q. My screen is rotated clockwise 90 degrees how do i restore this?

In Windows, turning the desktop sideways is a feature that supports monitors with rotatable screens (with compatible graphics cards and display drivers).  What probably happened is that you accidentally hit some key combinations, or your cat walked across the keyboard.

Hold Ctrl+Alt and then press the up arrow key. This will rotate it by 90 degrees until it is back where you want. The other arrow key Control+Alt combinations will rotate it in various directions.

XP: Or right-click on a blank spot of the Windows desktop, choose Properties: Settings
and click on the Advanced button. Look for a setting to change the rotation.
Alternatively, you can get to the display settings from Start Menu: Control Panel: Display: Settings

Windows 7 : Control Panels: Appearance and Personalization: Display Settings: Resolution

 

On Macintosh:

Open System Preferences from under the Apple menu
Hold down the Command+Option keys and click on the “Display”  system preferences icon
At the right hand side of the Display prefs window, see the ‘Rotation’ drop down menu (if you don’t see it, it means it is not supported on your machine/monitor)
Choose the rotation you prefer
Close Display preferences

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Q. How can I talk to my computer and have it type in the words?

You are asking for speech recognition or speech-to-text

To support speech recognition requires installing some additional software

Windows:
Dragon Naturally Speaking http://www.nuance.com/products/
ViaVoice http://www.nuance.com/viavoice/

Microsoft has some speech recognition tools in Windows
Windows 7 Accessibility http://www.microsoft.com/enable/products/windows7/default.aspx
Windows Vista (Narrator)  http://www.microsoft.com/enable/training/windowsvista/narrator.aspx
XP Speech to Text: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/306537/EN-US

Macintosh:
MacSpeech http://www.macspeech.com/
ViaVoice http://www.nuance.com/viavoice/osx/

Apple has built  text-to-speech (but not speech recognition) and accessibility aids into OSX  http://www.apple.com/macosx/accessibility/

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Q. How do I recover a Microsoft Word file I was working on when the machine crashed?

Microsoft Word saves temporary files of your work in progress, so you may be able to get back your document.

How to use AutoRecover files
Word 2010 office.microsoft.com/en-us/word-help/recover-earlier-versions-of-a-file-in-office-2010-HA010356735.aspx
Word 2003 and 2007: support.microsoft.com/kb/827099
Word 2002: support.microsoft.com/kb/316951
Word 2000: support.microsoft.com/kb/316950
Word 7.x: support.microsoft.com/kb/107686
More on file recovery office.microsoft.com/en-us/word-help/CH006083160.aspx

You can try these tips for recovering Mac Word documents

Recover Autosaved docs support.microsoft.com/kb/892956
Recover text from damaged files  support.microsoft.com/kb/180871
Recovering Word 2003 files office.microsoft.com/en-us/word-help/about-document-recovery-HP003084115.aspx

Beware of for-pay “word document recovery” programs – some of them can be fakes, or poorly performing generic software re-branded, and some like MacKeeper are borderline malware.  For example:

officeformacrecovery(dot)com is all about advertising Mac Word Recovery, but it links to a site selling Windows-only software.

wordrecoverymac(dot)com does not state Word 2010 compatibilty or OSX 10.7 compatibility, they do not disclose the price of the program, and the Buy Now button seems to be non-functional.

Both of the above websites and the YouTube video promoting the wordrecoverymac product are full of factual, grammatical and spelling errors and/or incomplete pages; all of these can be hallmarks of an unprofessional company or a quickly-made website which may be as quick to disappear.

I would stick with investigating only the programs that have been checked and listed at C|Net Download.com such as
download.cnet.com/officesalvage/3000-2242_4-10487562.html
download.cnet.com/uFlysoft-Data-Recovery/3000-2094_4-75628228.html?tag=api
download.cnet.com/Disk-Drill/3000-2094_4-75307728.html?tag=mncol;1
download.cnet.com/DDR-Recovery-Software/3000-2094_4-75631176.html?tag=api

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Favorite Sites: Life As A Human

Here is one of my favorite sites, Life As A Human http://lifeasahuman.com/ – a continual source of new ideas and challenges to indifference.

Life As A Human was started in February 2010 by some friends of mine in Victoria BC and has since spread to have over 70 writers internationally.

“Life As A Human is the online magazine for evolving minds, featuring content that talks about what it means to be human — the good, the bad … and the enlightening.

We feature intelligent, insightful writing on topics such as personal growth, insightful living, humor, spirituality, relationships, trends, and the issues that bind and divide us.

Life As A Human writers bring to light fascinating insights that reveal humanity in all its intricacies. Our writers will inspire you, sadden you, challenge you, make you laugh, make you mad — and even move you to action.”

Posted in Favorites, Media and Commentary, Web News | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

Q. How do I transfer all my songs/ movies from one iTunes to another computer?

In your User folder, under Music or My Music, you should see a folder called iTunes. inside this are your music folders and iTunes settings.

Note: This is the normal place for the files.  iTunes is capable of reading the music library files from a different location, so if you have customized your installation, look in Edit: Preferences: Advanced: Itunes Media Folder Location.  Also, iTunes can be set to not import the music files to the iTunes Library when they are added, so you may have to look for folders of MP3 files elsewhere on your hard drive.

You can transfer your iTunes folder from one machine to another, either by networking the two machines for file sharing, by copying the folder to a USB memory stick, an iPod http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1329 , or by burning the folder to a DVD (or multiple DVDs).

Note: If you are merging two music libraries, you will need to be careful to move the individual artist and album folders manually so you don’t overwrite the previous content.

http://www.macworld.com/article/146958/2010/03/move_itunes_windows_mac.html

http://www.myfirstmac.com/index.php/mac/articles/how-do-i-move-my-itunes-library-from-pc-to-mac-and-keep-my-settings-intact

http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1329

If you are discontinuing using the old computer, don’t forget to de-authorize it for your iTunes Store purchases before you disable the computer. http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1420

Be careful about attaching an iPod to a newly installed iTunes – if you Sync to the iPod it will erase what you have on the iPod.  The Apple transfer utility only transfers purchased songs, not ones you have ripped yourself.

There are software utilities for transferring songs out of an iPod onto machine.

Senuti for Mac http://www.fadingred.com/senuti/
and a  variety for PC
http://download.cnet.com/1770-20_4-0.html?query=iPod+transfer&platformSelect=Windows&tag=srch&searchtype=downloads&filterName=platform%3DWindows&filter=platform%3DWindows

 

Posted in Computer Questions and Answers, General Computer, Mac questions, Music recording, instruments, hard & software, Software, Windows questions | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment