Q. Can I get a good gaming laptop? For under $700?

First things first.  There is no such thing as a real gaming laptop – not if you mean a laptop machine that is portable, battery powered, and has game performance comparable to a desktop machine with a good graphic card GPU in it.

Why?  Because a good graphic GPU requires a lot of power, it’s bulky, and generates a boatload of heat.  Look at a modern GeForce or Radeon card – they are thicker and heavier than many notebooks all by themselves.  The heat generated by a graphic GPU is a major problem for laptops, and a high end GPU draws up to 150W in power all by itself, which will drain a typical laptop battery flat in 20 minutes or less.

There are a few very large “Desktop Replacement” notebooks with 17″ or 19″ screens which run on AC power only and include desktop class graphics cards, but these don’t meet the criteria for a laptop – namely being portable and battery powered.

What can you get?

Entry level – abandon gaming ambitions: For low cost laptops, you are going to get integrated video which is built into the motherboard chipset and uses ‘shared’ graphic memory (which really means it steals memory from the main system RAM of the machine, which is the slowest and least efficient way to do graphics). These models will either not run games, or will run games at the lowest resolutions and quality settings only. If you are thinking of a laptop under $500, then basically forget about modern games, and use a desktop or a game console for your game playing.

Mid level – gaming possible with limitations: Midrange laptops can come with discrete video chipsets which have their own, faster dedicated graphic memory. These GPU chipsets are almost always still soldered onto the motherboard, they can provide a good boost in video performance, to the extent that they will play modern 3D games at lower resolution, and less demanding games resonably well. The AMD A-8 series processors which have a Radeon HD 6550D  graphic core is an example of a cost effective midrange laptop. The Intel HD 4000 graphics with an i5 or an i7 processor is just slightly lower in performance than the A-8 / HD6550.

‘Gaming’ laptops – middle-range gaming performance at a higher price: Higher end ‘gaming’ laptops use Mobile versions of high performance GPUs which have been designed for lower voltage, lower wattage and lower heat output. It is a balancing act between performance, heat and battery life.  There are a number of different chipsets to choose from — be careful about the exact model numbers, for example the GeForce GTX ###M series cards are excellent performers while the GT ###M  series are much lower.   You can get medium settings on many games with good frame rates, and some games you can get full resolution and high settings depending on the chip. The trade off is a larger computer, a high price, and lower battery life.  Some units have two video GPUs internally, one gaming GPU and a lower powered integrated GPU for normal work, so you can turn off the gaming GPU while you are on battery power.

If you are deciding on a new laptop, and doing some entry- to mid- level gaming is important, then research the GPU chipsets that are available, and check the performance of your favorite games with the GPUs.

A benchmark chart of gaming performance for notebook computers is here
http://www.notebookcheck.net/Mobile-Graphics-Cards-Benchmark-List.844.0.html

Frame rate tests of specific games on notebooks
http://www.notebookcheck.net/Computer-Games-on-Laptop-Graphic-Cards.13849.0.html

Here is an April 2012  PCMagazine article on their top ten gaming notebooks from $1000 to over $4000 and a PCWorld article on five gaming notebooks from August 2012

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Q. Will my computer run games on the highest settings?

The answer is, it depends.

It depends on the graphic card:  Gaming is 90% about the performance of the video card (GPU). As long as you have adequate RAM and a reasonably modern CPU, then the video card Graphic Processing Unit will be the determining factor in game play frame rates. Check the requirements of the individual game with the publisher, but remember that a machine with the minimum requirements will not provide very good game play.

It depends on the settings: Game settings have a lot to do with how much demand is placed on the video card. The screen resolution and the quality settings (AA, AF) can affect the frame rates.  if you are not getting smooth game play, then reduce the resolution and/or the quality settings until the game is playable.

It depends on the game: Game performance also varies considerably between different games, some are more demanding than others. Research your favorite games in online forums to see what people are using for graphics.

This site has benchmarks for many current video cards with a variety of different games at different settings. You can choose the specific game, or some averaged scores

http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/2012-vga-gpgpu/benchmarks,135.html

This site rates hundreds of video cards old and new with an averaging benchmark

http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/high_end_gpus.html

The site systermrequirementslab.com has a calculator to check the requirements for many different games against your current system (Warning, this runs a Java application on your machine, you need to decide if you want to permit this. We do not endorse or verify this site for reliability.) 

All else being equal, a card with a higher graphic core clock speed will perform faster than a lower clock speed of the same GPU chip, and a card with more Graphic memory (2 GB) will perform better with high demand games or higher resolution.  The type of graphic memory on the card plays a small role in overall performance (DDR3 vs the faster GDDR5)

If you have a desktop machine, you can consider upgrading the video card, read this article.

You also want to make sure your machine is running as fast as it can.  Don’t run other programs in the background while you are gaming, and if you are online gaming, don’t run other Internet processes like downloading or updating or email while you are gaming.

A benchmark chart of gaming performance for notebook computers is here
http://www.notebookcheck.net/Mobile-Graphics-Cards-Benchmark-List.844.0.html

Frame rates of specific games on notebooks
http://www.notebookcheck.net/Computer-Games-on-Laptop-Graphic-Cards.13849.0.html

Notebooks are a special case.  Most notebooks are not capable of adequate game play on modern 3D games.  And because the GPU is not capable of being upgraded in 99.9% of laptops, your existing laptop cannot be improved. If you are looking for a new gaming laptop, read this article.

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Q. What is Ethernet CAT5 cable?

Ethernet is the most popular standard for transmitting network signals from one computer to another.

Ethernet can be carried on a variety of different media

RJ45 plugs on an Ethernet CAT5E cable

The most common Ethernet cabling is Unshielded Twisted Pair (UTP) which uses four conductors out of a 8 conductor twister pair copper cable (stranded or solid). It uses RJ-45 type plugs on the connection ends. The RJ-45 connector looks like an overgrown telephone plug.

 

 

Ethernet UTP cable can be rated as Category 5 (CAT5) for 100 Mbps Ethernet and CAT5E or CAT6 for 1000 Mbps Ethernet (Gigabit Ethernet). The maximium cable run for UTP is generally 100 m (300 ft).

Wall plate with RJ45 jack and RJ11 jack for telephone

CAT5E and CAT6 cable is relatively inexpensive, and increasingly it is being pre-wired into office and residential construction. Solid core UTP cable can be run inside walls and in ceiling spaces, and brought to RJ-45 wall jacks.
Although twisted pair cabling rejects interference, it is best to keep communications cables separated from AC power cables. Where possible, Ethernet and telephone cable should be run in different conduit from power cables.

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Q. Where can I get free TV shows and movies?

First, a word about copyright. Unless they are offered for free by the copyright holders, downloading commercial movies, music or programs for free is not legal.

You can get TV free at lots of places on the Internet. First, check with the television networks themselves. The availability of a particular network will vary with the country that you are in.

Available in Canada

Available in USA only

Some of the players may require signup or authentication from your cable TV provider.

Many individual shows have their own sites with streaming video, like South Park, The Daily Show, Stephen Colbert, Jimmy Fallon.

There are many video podcasts available. Miro Guide Podcast Directory

There are television shows and older movies available on various streaming media sites, examples

Sony Crackle http://www.crackle.com/
Veoh http://www.veoh.com/ (TV shows USA only, requires installation of software)
Hulu http://www.hulu.com/ (USA only)

Many shows, networks and movies are searchable at OVGuide http://www.ovguide.com/browse_sites?c=network+tv&ci=88

If you want to invest a few dollars a month for a subscription there are
Netflix https://signup.netflix.com/
Hulu Plus http://www.hulu.com/

Also if you subscribe to cablevision (or internet or cellular service from a carrier who also offers digital TV) you may be able to watch TV through their streaming site.

In Canada,

Rogers – http://www.rogers.com/web/content/Live-TV

Shaw – has no live streaming options at this point.

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Q. I am getting a FBI notice on my screen saying I have to pay?

This is a bogus FBI (or other organization) “ransomware” scam, which tries to scare you into paying a “fine” because they have allegedly done something illegal on their computer. If you don’t pay, the virus then locks your machine so you can’t get on the Internet.  The payment portal screen is called MoneyPak, so the malware has commonly been named MoneyPak, it is also called Citadel or Reveton.

If you have sent any money to an online scam, contact your bank or credit card company immediately, and then contact your local police.

First thing – do not click on the screen or follow any of the links. Shut the computer down.  The following instructions assume your machine is running Windows, Mac OSX is not susceptible to the virus, although you may see the popup browser ‘warning’.

Option 1) You can enter System Restore and roll your machine back to a Restore Point before the infection

  • Restart the computer.
  • During the startup before the Windows screens starts loading,  start tapping the F8 key until “Advanced Boot Options” appears.
  • Use the arrow keys to select “Repair your computer”.
  • Choose your language, and click Next.
  • Select the Windows that you want to repair, and then click Next.
  • Select your user account and click Next.

In the Options menu, select “System Restore” and choose a restore point date before the infection.  System Restore will roll back the software installs done after that date, but it will not change any of your data.  Also it will not remove viruses; this is only to get your machine operational again.

Restart the machine in Safe mode (F8) and then proceed with running antivirus software as below in Option 2.

Option 2) The virus is preventing you from going on the Internet, so you will need to download some cleaning tools on another, clean machine which has access, and put the tools onto a USB memory stick or burn them to a CD.

First download the latest versions of the following tools on another, clean machine and burn to CD or copy to a USB memory stick

Now, restart the machine in Safe Mode (Shut it down, start it up, and hit the F8 function key as the machine boots up and before the Windows screen comes on, and choose Safe mode from the list.)

Copy the tools from your USB stick to your desktop and before running them, then change the names of the malwarebyte to:   mblah.scr

Follow these steps in order:

Turn off System Restore on your machine, but only until you get this fixed – the virus gets copied into the System Restore files, which anti-virus programs aren’t allowed to touch and the viruses could reinstall themselves from there. Turning off System Restore allows the antivirus tool to access the saved Restore files.
My Computer > Properties > System Restore.

The malware actively blocks programs and tools, so before you can start cleaning, you need to get the malware entries out of the registry, and stop the malware’s current processes from running.

Double-click FixExec to run it to clean the registry

Now double click the RKill file (whatever name you downloaded it as) to run it. Wait for it, it could take a while.  If the malware throws a warning on the screen and blocks RKill, leave the warning up on the screen and run RKill again.

Do not reboot your computer  If you reboot it will just load the malware in again.

Now run CCleaner to clean out cache files (it’ll make scanning faster because it will save you from having to scan temporary files). If the virus blocks CCleaner from running, skip it and proceed to the next step.

Now run Malwarebytes (mblah), and clean everything it says.

Now install and run Avast AV – tell Avast to do a boot-scan – click on “schedule boot-scan” – and restart the computer

Let it start and do the Avast AV boot scan

Do a final Malwarebytes scan in normal boot and make sure it is clean.

If you have odd problems with web browser or internet behaviour, there may still be some bad entries in the internet settings. Run Minitoolbox to clear those out.

Then turn System Restore back on.

Now install the antivirus program of your choice to do continuous scanning, and make sure you keep it up to date. If you have your own antivirus, uninstall Avast now.

Option 3)  You can boot from a bootable Antivirus CD and do the repairs from there
Below are three reputable bootable antivirus CDs.

Kaspersky Rescue Disk – Creating and using Kaspersky Rescue Disk
Avira AntiVir Rescue System – Creating and using Avira Rescue CD
Dr.Web LiveCD – Creating and using Dr.Web Live CD

  • Download the ISO (disk image) file to a different, clean machine
  • Burn the antivirus ISO file onto a CD using CD burning software.
  • Insert the CD into the infected computer’s CD-ROM drive.
  • Restart the machine and Enter the computer’s BIOS, set it to boot from the CD, and reboot the computer. See Booting from a CD for instructions
  • Scan for and remove the malware using the software on the CD.

Once you have got the machine operational, go back and do the Malwarebytes scans from Option 2

Option 4) for removing scamware only, Norton Power Eraser http://security.symantec.com/nbrt/npe.aspx
This may be faster than a through antivirus scan, however there is a risk that Power Eraser could remove some legitimate software as well

About Browser Security:

Installing an Ad blocker in your Web browser or turning on the browsers anti-popup features is a first step, but it is not enough.

Many viruses that are launched from a poisoned Web page or banner ad rely on Java and/or Javascript running in your web browser software to execute their instructions.  If you turn off Java entirely, or remove it from your Web browser, you will be safer.  Turning off Javascript however is more problematic, because many of the legitimate sites you visit use Javascript for drop down menus, calendars, form filling, etc. and the sites won’t function without scripting.  My recommended solution is to use Firefox as your Web browser, with the addition of NoScript plugin, which allows you to control which scripts that you allow to run, and blocks all others.

Adobe Flash is also used by some malware and poisoned websites. You can also use Adobe Flash Player’s privacy settings to block access to the Flash player by websites www.macromedia.com/support/documentation/en/flashplayer/help/help09.html

More info on Scams

BBB Scam Source: www.bbb.org/canada/scam-source/

RCMP Scam and Fraud page: www.rcmp-grc.gc.ca/scams-fraudes/index-eng.htm

Canadian Anti-Fraud centre: www.antifraudcentre-centreantifraude.ca/english/home-eng.html

ABC Fraud quiz: www.abcfraud.ca/

Financial and investment fraud – BC Securities Commission:  www.befraudaware.ca/fraud-warning-signs?gclid=CKSr7uWFvrQCFQ_hQgodJ3IAMA

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Q. Can I get Nike, NFL or Air Jordan stuff cheaply from this site?

There are a huge number of websites which offer name brand and team branded sports items, apparel and shoes at a discount. They may advertise “factory direct” or “wholesale” prices.

The bottom line is, if you are being offered name brand goods at a steep discount, there is almost certainly a scam going on at some level, and you cannot be sure your credit card is safe with the seller.

These are high-margin products, and the original items are expensive – in part because the manufacturer has to pay royalties to the sports league or personality to use the branding and logos. Because they are high demand, high priced, low cost of production items, the field is ripe for fraudulent operators.

In almost every case, branded watches, fashion items, clothes and shoes offered at a discount will be unlicensed counterfeit or knockoff products. Most of these sellers are based in China, beyond the reach of copyright law and civil court action from other countries. This means that they are ripping off the trademark and copyright holders of the brands, and it means that you as the consumer have no protection under consumer laws if you get ripped off, or if you receive substandard product. More worrisome, you also have no control over what rogue companies may do with your charge card, name and address information.

You can do some basic reasearch on the domain name with these hints

www.computer-answers.ca/2011/internet-networking/q-how-do-i-know-this-online-company-is-legitimate

You can get information on the domain at a Whois service, Domaintools, or  www.scamadviser.com/

Some of the flags to look out for are:

  • Domain registration less than a year old
  • Registration address is phony or stealthed.  Look for sites stating their address is in the USA but the phone number is an offshore one, or the Zip code is phony.
  • Registration and administrator email addresses are free, throwaway accounts (gmail, hotmail, yahoo, etc.)  No reputable company uses free email servers for business emails.
  • Check the location of the primary Name Server . If the Name Server is in China, regardless what the registered address is, the company is almost certainly operating out of China.
  • The domain name or store name doesn’t sound like a business name, but rather has either numbers in it, a personal name, or the words shop or store (908shop.com, davidstore.cn) or is stuffed with keywords (air-jordan-shoes-nfl-jerseys.com, nfljersey451.com). The thing that keeps companies honest on the web is the damage to their reputation if they don’t treat customers right. That persuasion is nonexistent if the operator intends to abandon the name as soon as people start to recognize them as a scammer.
      • I have seen one individual who registered fifty different domains on the same day, using 50 different phony registrants names and addresses. He will run a store for a few weeks on one domain, take a few thousand customers’ orders and payment, then shut the site down and transfer it to a new domain name and continue business while the first 2000 customers wonder when their shoes are going to arrive. He is now set for 2 years of ripping people off.
  • Google the company name to see if anyone has reviewed, blogged or complained about the site. Watch out for shill posts – these operators are very aggressive at posting positive reviews of their own sites all over the web. I saw a batch of posts saying they had a great experience buying from one particular site four months ago.  Problem – the site only was created 5 days ago.
    Often, there will be no reviews because the site has only been in existence for a few days or weeks.  Ask yourself why you would possibly trust your money to a stranger in a foreign country who has been online for a week.
    Rule of thumb – ignore positive reviews from random people, concentrate on the issues.

The bottom line is, if you are being offered name brand goods at a steep discount, there is almost certainly a scam going on at some level, and you cannot be sure your credit card is safe with the seller.

 

More info on Scams

BBB Scam Source: www.bbb.org/canada/scam-source/

RCMP Scam and Fraud page: www.rcmp-grc.gc.ca/scams-fraudes/index-eng.htm

Canadian Anti-Fraud centre: www.antifraudcentre-centreantifraude.ca/english/home-eng.html

ABC Fraud quiz: www.abcfraud.ca/

Financial and investment fraud – BC Securities Commission:  www.befraudaware.ca/fraud-warning-signs?gclid=CKSr7uWFvrQCFQ_hQgodJ3IAMA

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Q. Can I really get great deals on penny auctions?

Can I really get an iPad for $39.87 like they advertise all over the Internet?

Short answer, no.

Longer answer – ONE lucky person out of a couple of thousand that are trying for it will get the iPad for $39.87. The other 1,999 people will lose their money trying. It’s like that ‘Claw’ game at the carnival. Yes, someone will grab the $20 prize for their 25 cents.  But hundreds and hundreds will lose their quarters trying.

Penny auction site are all schemes that prey on large numbers of unwary consumers. They are a pay-to-bid model where the participants purchase ‘bids’ in advance, at between 50 cents and a dollar per bid depending on the promotion. Therefore each bid they place on an item costs money.

The item for sale starts at a very low price (usually one cent) and the price of the item continually goes up by a penny each time a bid is made, and the end-time for the auction is continually extended every time there is a new bid. This catch, the ever-extending deadline, is what lures people into bidding (only 1 minute left, bid now! Then there’s 10 minutes more. Then there’s 10 minutes more…) and this is what creates anger for the bidders who thought they had won the item — combined with predatory advertising that make it seem a sure thing that you can ‘get’ a desirable item for 95% less than retail.

Do the math: The revenue model is not based on the selling price of the item, ($39.87 for an iPad! OMG!) it is based on the fact they they will get thousands of bids for the item at 50 cents to a dollar per bid, and only one item will be sold so they make thousands of dollars regardless that they ‘lose’ $500 on the final sale. This makes it perilously close to a lottery or a game of chance, which would be illegal. Do the math – at a penny an increment, that $39 iPad made them $2,432.00 in revenue with 3987 bids at an average of 60 cents each plus the final sale of $39.87.

Their defense against lottery and unfair trade practices laws is that

a) someone actually gets to buy the one item -eventually- and
b) they claim that there is an element of “skill” involved in being the winning bidder, which makes it not gambling or a game of chance, and
c) that the purpose of the auction is for entertainment for the bidders (yeah, ’cause it’s so much fun to waste money!)

There is no technique to win at penny bids.  Obviously the goal is to be the last bidder. But if you bid continually you will spend more than the item is worth.  Your best chance is to bid when there are very few other people participating, maximizing the chance that the bid won’t be raised by the time limit.  Penny auction companies recognize this weakness, and less-than-reputable companies may use robot bidders or human shill bidders to keep the auction alive by bidding up at the last moment.

Proving shill bidders or auction manipulation would be very difficult. All it would take is for the company to pay someone somewhere in the world to bid from home whenever the auction gets close to closing.

If you are sufficiently concerned, you can write a complaint to your state or federal governments trade practices or commercial competition department, complaining about misleading advertising, and possibly running an illegal gaming site, and possibly unfair business practices if you can prove auction manipulation. But don’t hold your breath, because they will likely tell you that they do not have jurisdiction over a web server based in another state or country.

Don’t listen to shills: Look out for penny auction employees who will sign on to defend their practices on online forums. Companies have been aggressive about shill posting to forums defending their practice – if they are honest, they will at least state who they work for.

You’ll see variations on : “it’s all been checked out” and “Someone actually does win the cheap iPad” and “It provides good fun for those who don’t win”, “I got three great products last week” and even “You too can win if you are clever about bidding” – which is the most insidious comment because there is no way to be assured you will get the product – other than continually bidding and paying far more than the product is worth.

None of that changes the fact that for every winner, there are hundreds of losers who have paid thousands of dollars.

Takeaway message:
There is no legitimate way to get goods free or at absurd discounts. Any time some one person gets a free or steeply discounted item, some others are paying for it – it’s a basic rule of commerce. In the case of the penny auctions, the winner is being subsidized by the hundreds of dupes who pay to lose.

The companies will tell you that the unhappy people are those who didn’t read the rules and didn’t understand what they were buying into when they spend on the bids (just for fun, have a look at the pages and pages of fine print). But one thing; they will never disclose what the actual odds of winning are in their advertising – that is, how many bids are made in a single item. Their business depends on people incorrectly assuming that they have a good chance of winning, not a 1:1000 chance.

The best defense is to never participate in a pay to bid auction, and inform your friends how they work and ensure they never participate.

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WTF is this, Scrabble?

OK, I admit that I am addicted to playing Scrabble on the iPad. I dodged Angry Birds but got ensnared by triple letter scores and words starting with Q.  Since my entire family refuses to play against me (something about always being beaten…) I play against the computer at the Hard setting.  It’s a bit distressing, I often score 350 – 400 but the program still beats me 75% of the time. Something to do with it being able to look through its dictionary and always lay down the highest scoring word.

But puzzle me this; when the computer is playing against me, it comes up with words that I am sure are cheating. I mean, WTF are these words supposed to be?

In real-world scrabble, you can challenge the other player to define the word that they are attempting to play.  Slang is out, so why are archaic, variant spellings, and dialect words allowed?  So, I am calling you out, Hasbro and Electronic Arts;  define these words that your program used to beat me over the head, double-word-score wise.  Time to put up or shut up.

(definitions from Dictionary.com)

Aboon – adverb, preposition. Scot. and British Dialect = above.   Yeah, this word was a good word — in 1350 AD.

Acold – adjective. Archaic = being cold or chilled. Another word from the middle ages, 900 AD

Adnoun – noun. Grammar = an adjective  used as a noun,  as meek  in Blessed are the meek; absolute adjective.

Adown – adverb, preposition. Archaic = down. … before 1000 AD

Adunc – adjective = curved inward; hooked.

Agene – noun = a yellow pungent volatile oil (trade name Agene) formerly used for bleaching and aging flour [syn: nitrogen trichloride]

Aiglet – noun = variant spelling of aglet 
1. a metal tag or sheath at the end of a lace used for tying, as of a shoelace.
2. (in the 16th and 17th centuries) an ornament at the end of a point or other ribbon used to secure a garment.
3. aiguillette ( def. 1 ) .

Ait – no dictionary results

Ajee or dialect  ( Scot ), ( English )
1. adj. =awry, crooked, or ajar
2. adv. = awry; at an angle

Aliya – no results found for Aliya:

Allodnoun, plural allodia = variant form of Alodium = land owned absolutely; land owned and not subject to any rent,service, or other tenurial right of an overlord.

Alodia – plural of Alodium

Anestri – no dictionary results

Anoas -noun, Indonesian Malay = a small forest buffalo, Bubalus  ( Anoa ) depressicornis,  of the island of Celebes, having a brown coat and straight, sharp-tipped horns: an endangered species.

Apod – noun = Without feet; footless.

Arhatnoun = a Buddhist who has attained Nirvana through rigorous discipline and ascetic practices.

Arvo – noun Australian Slang = afternoon

Awny – adj. = Having awns; bearded.

Ayahnoun = (in India) a native maid or nurse.

Bandores – noun, plural, variant spelling of Bandora = an obsolete musical instrument resembling the guitar. Also called pandora, pandore, pandoura, pandure.

Baregenoun = a sheer fabric constructed in a leno weave of silk warp and cotton or worsted filling, often used to make veils and dresses.

Bayadeer – No results found for Bayadeer.  Bayadere noun = a fabric with horizontal stripes of brilliant colors.  Spelling counts, Scrabble…

Betainesnoun, plural, Chemistry = a colorless, crystalline, water-soluble, sweet-tasting alkaloid, C 11NO , usually obtained from sugar beets or synthesized from glycine,used chiefly in medicine.

Chirus noun, plural, Biology = a goat antelope, Pantholops hodgsoni,  of Tibet, the male of which has very long, straight horns.

Chyle
Cothurni
Crannoge
Dartle
Deasil
Desinent
Dhak
Dorty
Doyly
Dromon
Dulia
Dumas
Eft
Elhi
Eloined
Eme
Emeu
Emyde
Equid
Eupnoea
Fadedly
Fanga
Farnesol
Feod
Fique
Fixt
Fubsiest
Garth
Gaun
Geoid
ghi
Gyve
Halidoms
Hapax
Hoatzin
Horal
Hunh
Iglu
Imino
Indusial
Jargoon
Jarvey
Jehu
Jiao
Juga
Jurant
Kas
Kep
Kist
Klong
Kusso
Kyar
Laari
Ladinos
Lateener
Leone
Limina
Litai
Lurex
Maqui
Mayst
Mho
Mib
Myc
Naoi
naoi
Nertz
Neuk
Nidi
Noetic
Obeah
Obi
Oidia
Ouphe
Pase
Patagia
Pavans
Peebeen
Pelf
Piu
Pood
Psoai
Pya
Pya
Pyic
Rax
Raxing
Rayah
Redan
Redounds
Roseolar
Ruga
Shmo
Sithence
Skep
Sovrans
Spaldeen
Syn
Tapalo
Tectum
Thyrse
Tilak
Tivi
Toea
Toit
Topoi
Townees
Tribade
Trooz
Turrical
twelvemo
Tyiyn
Ulexite
Umbones
Umiack
Umiaq
Unbe
Unugal
Vail
Vara
Vatful
Vav
Vaw
Veepee
Vegete
Venge
Venine
Vinic
Waterier
Weer
Wha
Whort
Womera
Yag
Yapok
Yird
Zax
Zayin
Zeatin
Zebrines
Zein
Zek
Zineb
Zlote
Zoic

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Q. How do I get rid of Babylon search in my browser?

Babylon is a search “aid” for web browsers and a toolbar; it is a rogue search engine redirector.  It resists attempts to uninstall it.  Do NOT go to the Babylon site and use their uninstaller, it leaves code on your machine.

Firefox:

Go to Manage Search Engines in Firefox and remove any entries for Babylon

http://support.mozilla.org/en-US/kb/search-bar-easily-choose-your-search-engine

Check if you have Babylon Toolbar in your Firefox menu > Add Ons and remove any items for Babylon. Check both the Plug ins tab and the Extensions tab (on older versions, Tools >  Add-ons).

http://support.mozilla.org/en-US/kb/disable-or-remove-add-ons

Set the Home page to the search engine of your choice (the default Google search entry is http://www.google.com/search?ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=navclient&gfns=1&q= )

http://support.mozilla.org/en-US/kb/How%20to%20set%20the%20home%20page?s=Set+home+page&r=1&as=s

Remove Babylon from the search engine default for unrecognized pages

  1. In the address bar enter “about:config” and hit Enter
  2. Bypass the warranty screen(s) by clicking
  3. On the next screen enter “Babylon” in the Filter window (a search in the config)
  4. You will find approx a half dozen places where Babylon shows up.
  5. Highlight each of these entries one at a time, right click and choose “reset”.
  6. When finished.close the file.
Chrome 
  1. Click on the wrench icon in the Google Chrome address bar and from the drop down menu select Settings > Extensions or Tools > Extensions — depending on your version
    (or enter chrome://settings/extensions in the location bar)
  2. Check if any items of Babylon Toolbar or Babylon Chrome OCR are listed in the browser Extensions. If the Click on uninstall to remove the toolbar(s) from the browser.
  3. Close the window. Choose the wrench icon again and depending on your version choose Settings > Settings or Options from the drop down menu.
  4. Check the Home Page setting under Basics to see if Babylon is listed. Replace it with another search engine that you want to use for your home page.
  5. Click Manage search engines, check if Babylon is listed on the page. Hover your mouse overan Babylon entries, click the X icon to uninstall it. Go back to the previous page and pick another available search engine as the default browser search engine.
  6. Check the On Start Up entry in Settings, click on Go to a specific page… and enter http://www.Google.com  or your preferred search engine.

Internet Explorer

If you don’t have any preferences and settings in Internet Explorer that you particularly want to keep, you can do a reset of the IE Settings http://www.microsoft.com/security/pc-security/browser-hijacking.aspx

Otherwise you can remove it manually

Delete the Babylon Toolbar

  1. Open Internet Explorer and click on “Tools”.
  2. Select “Manage Add Ons”,  search for the Babylon Toolbar in the list of add-ons.
  3. Right Click on the Babylon Toolbar and select “disable”.
  4. Click on “Ok” and restart Internet Explorer.

Restore your home page to the one you want

http://www.microsoft.com/security/pc-security/homepagerestore.aspx

Remove Babylon from the search engine default for unrecognized pages (note this requires editing your Registry. Back it up first.  If you are not confident, refer the work to someone experienced)

  1. Open “RegEdit” through the launch menu.
  2. Find this entry
  3. HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\About URLs\Tabs
  4. Change the entry that points to Babylon search, to the search engine you want (Google for example).

After removing and resetting, I would recommend starting in Safe mode (F8) and running Malwarebytes or SuperAntiSpyware to check the machine and registry.  Running CCleaner to clean the registry wouldn’t hurt.  Then test your browser(s) by opening them and typing in some nonsense in the URL/location bar to make sure the defaults have been successfully changed.

 

You may have the Babylon Uninstaller still remaining on your machine

Go to C:\Program Files\ and delete any folder related to Babylon
Go to C:\Program Files (X86) and delete any folder related to Babylon

Restart the machine in Safe Mode (F8) and run CCleaner

  1. Open CCleaner,
  2. Click Tools,
  3. Select Babylon toolbar from the list,
  4. Click Uninstall.
  5. Run the Registry tool,
  6. Run the cleaner.

YouTube video tutorials on removing Babylon

Manual removal of files: Search your computer for these files

  • Temp%\1829391B-BAB0-7891-A172-248E6F142BCD\Latest\bab033.tbinst.dat
  • %Temp%\1829391B-BAB0-7891-A172-248E6F142BCD\Latest\BabylonObjectInstaller.bao
  • %Temp%\1829391B-BAB0-7891-A172-248E6F142BCD\Latest\BabylonObjectInstaller.inf
  • %Temp%\1829391B-BAB0-7891-A172-248E6F142BCD\Latest\BabylonTB.xpi
  • %Temp%\1829391B-BAB0-7891-A172-248E6F142BCD\Latest\BExternal.dll
  • %Temp%\1829391B-BAB0-7891-A172-248E6F142BCD\Latest\MyBabylonTB.exe
Posted in Computer Questions and Answers, Viruses and malware, Windows questions | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Installing hard drives in an Apple iMac

Note: Installing hard drives in an iMac requires disassembling the machine and should be attempted only if you have experience. If you are not confident, please refer the work to a competent technician.

Intel iMacs  require the glass LCD screen to be removed.

The Non Retina pre-2012 models are feasible for a confident tinkerer. Do not use tools on the edge of the glass. If your machine requires that the glass be removed, go to an auto supply store and get a couple of the large suction cups that are use for pulling out sheet metal dents. These can be used to pull the glass without prying at the edges.

Also, when you lift the screen, you can easily rip out the various ribbon cables that attach it to the motherboard. Take it slowly and pay attention to the underside of the screen.  If you have a buddy that can hold the screen tilted up on about a 25 degree angle, you may just be able to access the hard drive without removing all the cables.

The slim edge Retina iMac models after 2012 are another story. The glass and LCD are laminated to the case with glue.  It requires specialized tools to disassemble, and special adhesive strips to reassemble, and the risk of expensive breakage is high. We highly recommend taking these machines to an authorized Apple repair shop if they need internal work.

Install Guides at iFixit:

iMac G5 first generation (DDR memory)
iMac G5 17″ A1058
iMac G5 20″ A1076

iMac G5 iSight (DDR2 memory)
iMac G5 17″ A1144
iMac G5 20″ A1145

iMac Intel White Lexan
iMac Intel 17″
iMac Intel 20″ EMC2105 and EMC2118
iMac Intel 24″ EMC2111

iMac Intel Aluminum SantaRosa and Penryn Mid 2007 – Mid 2009
iMac Intel 20″ EMC2133 and EMC2210
iMac Intel 24″ EMC2134 and EMC2211
iMac Intel 20″ EMC2266
iMac Intel 24″ EMC2267

iMac Intel Late 2009
iMac Intel 21.5″ EMC2308
iMac Intel 27″ EMC2309 and EMC2374
iMac Intel 21.5″ EMC2389
iMac Intel 27″ EMC2390

iMac Intel 2011
iMac Intel 21.5″ EMC2428
iMac Intel 27″ EMC2429

iMac Intel Late 2012

iMac Intel 21.5″ EMC 2544 Note: uses 2.5 inch laptop-sized hard drive
iMac Intel 27″ EMC 2546

iMac Intel 2013 Retina

iMac Intel 21.5″ EMC 2638 and 2742  Note: uses 2.5 inch laptop-sized hard drive
iMac Intel 27 EMC 2639

iMac Intel 2014 and 2015 Retina

iMac Intel 21.5″ EMC 2805  Mid 2014 Note: uses 2.5 inch laptop-sized hard drive
iMac Intel 21.5″ EMC 2889  Late 2015 Note: uses 2.5 inch laptop-sized hard drive
iMac Intel 21.5″ EMC 2833  Late 2015 Retina 4K 2.5 inch drive
iMac Intel 27″ EMC 2806 and 2834 Retina 5K

iMac Intel 21.5 EMC 3069 2017 Retina 4K

Hard drive temperature sensors:

iMacs earlier than Late 2009 use an external temperature sensor that is attached to the drive. You can unpeel the adhesive holding the sensor on the drive, and reapply the sensor to the new drive in the same position.

Late 2009 /2010 iMac models use a cable from the motherboard to some pins on the drive for the temperature readings. The pinout of the cable differs between manufacturers of drives, so the safest approach is to replace your hard drive with one of the same brand. When disassembling the machine, make careful note of the thermal sensor plug’s location and orientation. You will need to reinstall it the same way. Reports are that the white dot on the connection needs to be facing up. You can check the model number of your hard drive under Apple menu > About This Mac > More Information > Hardware

If the temperature sensor is not reporting to the Mac correctly, the Mac will ramp up the fan speeds until they are running at full speed.  One solution is to install some commercial software that controls the fan speed from the SMART information from the drive, rather than the temperature sensor cable http://www.hddfancontrol.com/

Some people have also reported success attaching the Late 2009 / 2010 cables to an external HD temperature sensor from an earlier model iMac or the heat sensor from an optical drive (Apple part #922-9141).

Others have reported trying one of the following:

  • Replacing the temperature sensor cable with the Apple part for the correct brand of hard drive being installed
    • #922-9223 for Hitachi
    • #922-9224 for Seagate (note that it still may not work if the Seagate drive firmware does not report the temperature)
    • #922-9225 for Western Digital
  • reversing the cable leads,
  • rewiring the pins
  • shorting the connector by leaving it plugged in at the motherboard and using a small wire to go from one socket to the other of the jack on the drive-end of the sensor cable.

2011, 2012 and later iMacs do not use a separate temperature cable, but draw the temperature information through a connection in the SATA power connector. This apparently requires that the drive have firmware specific to Apple. The easiest solution is to purchase the hard drive fan control software http://www.hddfancontrol.com/

A free alternative is SMCFancontrol http://www.eidac.de/?cat=4 which can control the maximum speed of the fans but does not substitute the SMART temperature readings in for the hard drive sensor information.

OWC didimachdd11 iMac SATA temperature CableA hardware solution is a SATA cable from OWC (around CAN$60) which inserts the temperature sensor information into the SATA power connector

Note: Slimline Retina iMac models and the recent 21.5 inch models are glued together and we do not recommend that you attempt to install internal components unless you have experience and tools to do so.

Posted in Computer Questions and Answers, Hard Drives and SSD, How-To, Mac questions | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Glossary of memory terms and definitions

Types of RAM:

Photo of RAM modules types

Memory Terminology: This is a simplified overview of RAM terms and definitions

100 pin memory
Used primarily in laser printers, 100 pin SIMM memory is not compatible with other formats.

CAS Latency:
To oversimplify a complex discussion, the main timing of a RAM module is described by a CAS (Column Address Strobe) Latency value. This is the length of time that a RAM module needs between serving one request and when it is “recharged” and able to take the next request. All else being equal, and if the motherboard can make use of faster latencies, the lower the CAS Latency value the faster the RAM can respond.

There are other latency measurements but CAS Latency is the most important. See our article on choosing memory speed.

In older SDRAM (PC66, PC100, PC133) , a CL2 module is not always faster than a CL3 module – the effective speed is determined by the memory controller on the motherboard of the computer, and in some cases a CL3 module matches an older motherboard’s timing better and performs faster than a CL2 module.

Non-Synchronous memory isn’t measured the same way – it has a memory response speed in nanoseconds, and the computer waits for the RAM chip to be ready. Synchronous RAM, in contrast, synchronizes its operations to the computer’s memory buss clock.

SDRAM can be CAS 2 or CAS 3

DDR RAM is normally CAS Latency 2.5 for PC2700 modules and CL3 for PC3200 modules. Premium modules are available with CL2.5 or CL2.0 on higher-capacity PC3200 modules. (DDR make two operations per clock cycle, which is why it can have “half” of a tick)

DDR-2 RAM is normally CAS Latency 4 (DDR2-533), CAS Latency 5 (DDR2-667) and CAS Latency 5 0r 6 (DDR2-800). Lower latency RAM is available at higher prices.

DDR-3 RAM has CAS latencies in the range of 7 to 11, with latency increasing as the clock rate increases. This means that the latency penalty versus DDR-2 RAM partially rolls back the advantage of DDR-3 running at higher clock speeds. Again, the fastest MHz and the lowest Latency command the highest prices.

DDR – Dual Data Rate RAM
Can be packaged in both DIMM (184-pin for Desktops) and SO-DIMM (200-pin for laptops) forms. Speeds are PC2100 (266 MHz) PC2700 (333 MHz) and PC3200 (400 MHz) DDR . The standards for speeds higher than PC3200 are not finalized, although some manufacturers offer “PC3700” “PC4000” and up DDR modules as a marketing designation.

DDR-2
A format that is faster than DDR. DDR and DDR-2 are not compatible with each other. Designations are PC2-5300 (DDR2-667 MHz), PC2-4200 (DDR2-533 MHz, also called by some manufacturers PC4300), and PC2-6400 (DDR2-800). Available in both DIMM and SODIMM packages. Faster speed RAM is available at higher prices.

DDR-3
DDR-3 is now the primary RAM type for new desktop and laptop machines and motherboards. DDR, DDR-2 and DDR-3 are not compatible with each other. Some early DDR3 motherboards have sockets for both DDR-2 and DDR-3 memory, however the two formats cannot be combined at the same time.

DDR-4
JEDEC has recently (September 2012) ratified the DDR-4 memory standard.  It is dual data rate memory, same as DDR1, 2 and 3. The DDR4 memory speeds will start at 2133 MHz (bus speed 1067 MHz).

Density:
When a RAM module is built, the manufacturer can design it using high density or low density chips. For example, modules built with 4 x 32Mb chips, 8 x 16Mb chips or 16 x 8Mb chips all come out to the same amount of RAM. However, the memory controller circuit in a computer must be able to address the chips on the module – if the memory controller cannot address higher density chips, that computer will only function with modules built with lower density chips.

DIMM – Dual Inline Memory Module
Found in desktop machines and servers, PC66, PC100 and PC133 are all different speeds of DIMMs in a 168 pin package, there are also SDRAM DIMMs that predate the PC66 standard. (DDR memory is also technically a DIMM format but are usually referred to as DDR rather than DIMM). The 168-pin DIMM format is 5.25 inches long and may be from .75 to 2 inches tall.

DRAM – Dynamic Random Access Memory – the general description of almost all computer memory.

Dual Channel memory – In Dual-Channel Mode, (whether in a PowerMac G5, Mac Intel, or modern PC motherboards), the memory controller addresses a pair of matched modules as if they were one big module. This doubles the theoretical bandwidth of the memory. Benchmark improvement of memory performance can be up to 40%, typically around 20%, but real-world improvement to application performance will be between 6% and 8% because your machine spends a lot of time on tasks other than waiting for the memory. wikipedia definition

In order for dual channel to work, the two memory modules have to be identical in size, speed, and composition — that is, the number and capacity of chips and the organization of the rows and columns on the chips. Note that they don’t HAVE to be the same brand and model, as long as all the other things match… but it is much easier to assure that they will match if two of the same modules are bought together at the same time or as a dual-channel kit. It’s important to note that there is no difference to the individual memory module whether it is single or dual channel – Dual Channel refers only to the use of two modules as a matched pair.

If a motherboard does not support dual channel, there is no way to add the function, and installing matched pairs will not result in any performance increase.

ECC – Error Correcting RAM – also called Parity RAM
ECC RAM has an extra error-correcting bit (9 bits instead of 8 per word) for higher reliability in servers and high-end machines. Most forms of RAM (SIMMs, DIMMs, RDRAM and DDR RAM) are available in either ECC or Non-ECC. Most common computers use Non-ECC (standard) memory. In order to use ECC RAM,

  1. The machine’s motherboard must support ECC, and
  2. All of the RAM in the machine must be ECC. If you install Non-ECC and ECC together, the machine might work, but all of the RAM will revert to Non-ECC mode.
  3. Although some machines can accept either ECC or Non-ECC, there is little advantage to installing ECC RAM in a general purpose machine and possibly a small speed penalty to using ECC.

If you have a machine that can take either ECC or Non-ECC and are unsure what to order, either check the RAM that is already installed, or check your purchase invoice for the machine, which should indicate whether ECC was installed or not initially. Do not mix ECC and Non-ECC if you can avoid it.

Reading memory chip part numbers: You can sometimes read from the part number whether the RAM in your machine is ECC (Parity). ECC RAM often has a number in the part number that is a multiple of 9, where Non-ECC would have a multiple of 8. Example, RAM that has x18 or x36 or x72 in the number would be ECC, compared to Non-ECC with x16 or x32 or x64.  Also look for letters in the speed designation. Examples: PC2-6400U would normally mean Unbuffered, normal non-ECC RAM. PC2-6400UR would stand for Unregistered, PC2-6400R would be Registered ECC, and PC2-6400E would mean ECC – probably unbuffered.  1R (SR), 2R (DR)and 4R (QR) would stand for Single Rank, Dual Rank and Quad Rank.

Registered vs. unregistered (unbuffered)
Memory modules can be built with additional support chips to buffer the flow of data on and off the module. This provides less load to the motherboard, increases reliability, and allows for the use of larger or more memory modules. There is sometimes a small speed penalty to this.

Because of the added expense of the modules and the performance hit, the use of buffered or registered memory is confined mainly to servers and high end workstations (and some early Athlon 64 motherboards). All non-ECC memory is unbuffered.

If a machine requires registered memory (or unregistered memory) do not install RAM of the opposite type. Even if it supports both, never mix registered and unregistered modules in the same machine.

Non-ECC RAM also called Non-Parity RAM – this is the standard memory used in desktops and laptops.
Unless specified otherwise, all standard RAM is Non-ECC, unbuffered and unregistered.

EDO – Extended Data Out
FPM – Fast Page Mode
These two terms refer to older (c. 1998 and earlier) RAM produced before the introduction of the PC66 standard. SIMMs, DIMMs and SO-DIMMs can be either EDO or FPM, Some desktop machines can take EDO or FPM interchangeably (although it is recommended to match the existing RAM type), in many cases EDO and FPM cannot be substituted for each other. Some EDO modules are rising in price rapidly because the components are no longer being manufactured by most chipmakers. It is not unusual for an EDO SO-DIMM for an older laptop to cost hundreds of dollars. The distinction between EDO and FPM is irrelevant with PC66, PC100, PC133, RAMBus and DDR RAM types.

Flash RAM:
Any of a number of types of RAM that stores data even when the power is turned off. The firmware (BIOS) of most machines is kept in flash RAM (also called NVRAM – Non-Volitile Random Access Memory).

Digital Camera memory cards such as CompactFlash and SecureDigital use Flash RAM technology. SSD drives (Solid State Drive) also use Flash memory chips internally, but with a much different controller than CF and SD cards. The term Flash card is loosely used to cover any form of portable non-volatile memory card.

Memory Speed: Measured in megahertz (MHz). Putting in faster RAM will not necessarily make the machine run any faster. The memory is accessed at the speed set by the machine’s memory controller. RAM with a faster speed rating will simply be run at the controller’s normal speed. The motherboard must support adjusting to higher memory bus speeds (either manually through a BIOS setting, or automatically with Intel’s PAT technology) for there to be any advantage to faster rated RAM. See our article.

Micro-DIMM
Rare, smaller than the SODIMM format, found in a few Sony, Panasonic. Fujitsu, Acer and Toshiba laptops. The MicroDIMM package can be either PC100. PC133 or DDR PC2100 or PC2700 or DDR2-4200, and there may be 144, 172 or 214 pins. The different formats are not interchangeable. These are difficult to find and many variations are discontinued or not available.

PC66, PC100, PC133:
These are standards for SDRAM DIMMs and SO-DIMMs that specify memory bus speeds of 66 MHz, 100 MHz and 133 MHz. In broad terms, you can substitute faster RAM into a machine (putting PC133 into a machine that specifies PC100, for example), but there is no performance benefit to doing so.

However there are a number of earlier PC66 and PC100 machines that are incompatible with modern PC133 modules for reasons of both memory chip density and differences in the supporting chips on the memory module. Always cross-reference compatibility before ordering.

Profile:
The physical size of the RAM module, both in height and in thickness. Some machines, particularly laptops, have physical space limitations that demand low-profile or in some cases super-low profile modules.

Proprietary:
Any memory format that does not conform to the common standards. Some machines, predominantly laptops built earlier than 1998, some music keyboards and samplers, and some laser printers use a proprietary memory packaging. These modules have mainly been discontinued by manufacturers and may be difficult or impossible to source.

RAMBus, RIMM (RAMBus Inline Memory Module), also called RDRAM:
RAMBus memory module. Most often, 16-bit RAMBus memory must be installed in pairs. In some machines, a dummy terminator module or Continuity RIMM (CRIMM) is required to fill the empty sockets.

RAMBus speeds are PC800 (for machines with 400 MHz and 533 MHz Frontside Busses) and PC1066 (533 MHz FSB). The PC600 and PC700 designations are obsolete and PC800 can be substituted. There are 2 variations on PC800 RAMBus – 45 nanosecond and the faster 40 ns. The 45 ns memory can usually be used on machines with 400 MHz FSB. A 533 MHz FSB machine will take the 40 ns modules, and may not accept the 45 ns modules.

Most manufacturers have discontinued RAMBus, PC1066 is largely unavailable, for the time being there are still supplies of PC800 RAM, and the faster PC800-40ns RAM can sometimes be used to substitute for PC1066. Always cross-reference compatibility with your specific machine before ordering.

32-bit RAMBus modules have been introduced which can be installed singly – however the motherboard has to specifically support 32-bit RAMBus to use these. 32-bit RAMBus (sometimes called PC4200) has been discontinued and is completely unavailable.

It is not possible to convert a RAMBus motherboard to use any other type of RAM. Although you could swap in a modern motherboard with some computers, there are problems with mismatches in power supplies and in Pentium processor pinouts – most RAMBus motherboards use an obsolete CPU socket, so the CPU cannot be swapped into a new motherboard. Ultimately, replacing the machine with a new one is the answer.

SIMM – Single Inline Memory Module:
Found in older desktops and many laser printers, in 72-pin packages, and less commonly 30-pin. Commonly must be installed in pairs. Whether a SIMM is FPM or EDO memory (see below) is significant.

SDRAM – Synchronous Dynamic Random Access Memory – the general discription of most modern RAM. Although DDR and DDR-2 RAM is technically Synchronous memory, the term SDRAM is sometimes used for PC66, PC100 and PC133 RAM to distinguish them from DDR memory. Synchronous refers to the fact that starting with PC66 memory, the memory module no longer ran ‘free’ according to the refresh rate of its chips, but instead took its timing from a clock pulse from the motherboard. Once memory modules were designed to synchronize to an external clock, manufacturers were able to produce ever faster RAM that could transfer large amounts of data reliably.

SO-DIMM (SODIMM)- Small Outline Dual Inline Memory Module:
Most often found in laptops but also in iMac and Mac Mini desktops.
Most SDRAM SODIMMs are 144 pin packages,
DDR and DDR2 are in 200 pin SODIMMs with different slots, and
DDR3 is in a 204 pin SODIMM package.
There are also some rare 72 pin and 100 pin small-outline modules.

Overclocking:
Modifying a motherboard to run at speeds higher than the speed it was designed for. RAM is certified to run reliably at the speed it is sold as, and may or may not work reliably at increased speeds. There is no warranty on RAM run at faster than design speeds. There are specific RAM modules sold (notably Kingston HyperX and Corsair XMS) with higher speed ratings and lower latencies, specifically for the overclocking market. There is always a trade-off between pushing the performance envelope of hardware versus stability and longer life. The common method of overclocking is to increase speeds to the point where the machine becomes unstable, and then reducing the speed to the point where it runs acceptably reliably.

VRAM – VideoRAM:
Memory that is dedicated to the use of the grapics processing unit (video card). The VRAM is usually faster than normal RAM and more expensive. Top of the line video cards have between 128 MB and 256 MB of fast VRAM. Large amounts of VRAM are used for 3-D gaming and where the program is manipulating large amountsof textures and shader data. Normal 2-D display requires only 2 to 16 MB of VRAM depending on resolution and colour depth of the display. VRAM is usually soldered onto the video card, and is not upgradeable. On a very few machines, VRAM is socketed on the motherboard and can be upgraded. Other terms that are specific to Video RAM are GDDR, GDDR-2, GDDR-3 and GDDR-5

Shared VRAM is a misnomer – this really refers to motherboards with built-in graphics chips with no dedicated VRAM. The graphics system “steals” 4 MB to 512 MB of memory from main system memory. This results in lower performance for video, and a loss of RAM available to the operating system. An easy speed up for inexpensive machines with shared, or integrated, video systems is to install a separate AGP or PCI-e video card (if the machine has a suitable slot) and disable the built-in graphics system. Of course, the least expensive machines won’t have an AGP or PCI-e socket either, so you’re stuck on those ones.

Cache RAM:
High speed memory, that acts as a buffer between a processor and lower speed devices (memory, disk storage or a bus) Cache acts like the little jug of coffee creamer at your restaurant table. You can serve yourself small quantities immediately, without having to call back to the kitchen and waiting for each serving.

Similarly, cache RAM allows a processor to get access to the most recently used items in memory very quickly, without having to process a request for each bit to come from the main memory. This makes operations faster, because much of a computer’s time is spent accessing the same instructions or the same data repeatedly. In the mid 80s, some computers had upgradeable cache RAM, which was expensive, but gave a performance boost. Today, all major processors have between 1 GB and 12 GB of cache RAM built right onto the CPU’s die, where it can be accessed directly by the CPU core(s). The days of user-accessible cache RAM are long over.

Hard drives use cache RAM as well, between 8MB and 64MB of SDRAM built onto the drive controller board to buffer reads and writes while the drive platters and heads are positioning in the correct locations. A few manufacturers have used up to 4 GB of SSD flash memory as a larger cache on a hard drive, terming it a “Hybrid” drive.

Intel incorporated hardware support in the Z68 and some newere 6- and 7- series chipset motherboards for caching of the system hard drive on a 32 GB SSD, calling it Smart Response Technology (SRT).

Apple’s new Fusion drive technology uses software to cache onto a 128 GB SSD to speed up the rotating hard drive.

Posted in Computer Questions and Answers, General Computer, Memory | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Q. What is Dual Channel memory?

Dual Channel memory access is a technique where the computer’s memory controller can access two identical memory modules as if they were one large module.  This gives a theoretical doubling of bandwidth between the memory controller and the memory.  In real life, it translates to about a 6% to 8% speed increase over the same amount of memory in Single Channel mode.

Dual channel memory access (and triple channel for certain desktop machines) is dependent on the motherboard having the functionality. It cannot be added to a machine that does not support it.  Most machines with DDR2 and DDR3 memory do support Dual Channel, some machines with DDR (PC3200 and PC2700) memory do as well.

There is no difference in the memory modules in a Dual Channel configuration. Some manufacturers sell pairs of memory in Dual Channel sets, all this means is that they are guaranteeing the two individual modules are going to match.

You don’t necessarily need to buy the two modules for Dual Channel at the same time, or even of the same brand. The requirement is that the modules have to match in their size, their speed, and their composition (how the memory chips are organized on the module and the logical ranking of the rows and columns of memory). So it is possible to have two modules from different brands make a successful Dual Channel pair.

Size and speed are easy. The catch is that it is difficult for you to determine the internal organization of a module to know whether the composition is the same – so the easiest way to guarantee a Dual Channel pair is still to buy two modules of the same make, model and batch.

Posted in Computer Questions and Answers, General Computer, Memory | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Keeping clean is cool

Enemy #1
The number one enemy of computers is heat. Excess heat can damage components outright, or cause accelerated wear over time. Especially with laptops and all in one machines, a great deal of engineering goes into conducting heat away from the computer components and moving it outside of the case.

So your job is to let the computer’s cooling system do its job.  Make sure that the ventilation holes and grilles of the machine are clean and free from obstruction, make sure that the fans are operating properly. Use a computer on a hard surface, never use a computer on a soft surface or on fabric (like blankets or a soft carpet) because the fabric will both block the cooling vents and hold the heat in by insulating the machine.

My pad or your pad?
A solution for laptops that get excessively hot is a laptop cooling pad, which provides a hard surface (often with an ergonomically advantageous angle) and either passive or active airflow around the laptop’s case.  Active models have from one to three fans, which typically run off USB power and move air past the bottom of the computer to carry away heat.

Dust bunnies, unite!
Dust loves computers, it will collect wherever there is airflow and static electricity. The grilles and vent holes of a computer case, and CPU coolers, fans and fan housings are prime areas where dust will cause problems.

You can clean out a computer with compressed air with bottles of ‘canned air’.  We prefer a more ecologically-sound method which is a specialized blowing unit that runs on AC power (like a reverse vacuum) and does not vent any chemicals or create metal waste.  Be careful with the air flow, and don’t send it directly into optical drives or floppy drives, where the air pressure could damage the delicate heads of the drive.

We do not usually recommend using a household vacuum cleaner on a computer – airflow through the vinyl hoses of vacuums generate a lot of static electricity and in a worst case scenario may damage computer components. However, if there is no other option for cleaning a machine, you can suck out the dust carefully.

However, just blowing out a machine from the outside may not be sufficient – the best way to clean a machine is to open the case to get access to the components.  This is easy enough with a PC tower, but for notebook machines and all in ones like the iMac, disassembly is more complex and it may be better left to an experienced tech. Here is the example.

We took pictures of the insides of an iMac before cleaning, and then reassembled it and blew air through the grilles as thoroughly as we could from the outside.  Then we took it apart to see the results (click on the image for the large version):

 

Not too impressive, right?  There’s no substitute for opening the machine to clean it properly.

Hint, if you have to disassemble an iMac, recent models require the screen to be lifted out. Go to an auto parts store, and invest in a pair of the large suction cups that are sold for pulling out dents. This is a much more secure way to lift the screen.  Whatever you do, don’t use metal tools to pry around the edge of the glass.

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OSX 10.8 Mountain Lion information

Apple released OSX 10.8 “Mountain Lion” on July 25. It is available from the Apple App Store as a download for $19.95.  When you purchase one Mountain Lion, you can install it on as many Macs as you own.  (if you received a Mountain Lion upgrade free with the purchase of a new Mac after June 11 2012, then the free one is good only for that one machine. You would have to buy one retail download to cover any other machines)

If you have a lot of computers, or if you have a slow internet connection, you probably don’t want to download the whole installer on each machine. You can use a USB memory keychain drive of 8 GB or more as a installer.

Instructions for copying the Mountain Lion installer onto a USB key: http://gigaom.com/apple/quick-tip-create-a-usb-installer-for-mountain-lion/

Creating a bootable USB Key of 10.8 http://www.iclarified.com/entry/index.php?enid=23486

Do you want to install Mountain Lion at all?

If you have a mission-critical machine, or operate under tight deadlines, or use older software oe peripherals that does not have 10.8 updates available, you do not want to upgrade the operating system of your machine. 10.8 is a major change of operating system, especially if you are jumping from 10.6, and you can expect that some things will not work, some things will take a lot of time to sort out, and that you may be forced into buying upgrades.

Do the research first. Check with all of your important programs’ publishers and device (printer, scanner, etc) manufacturers for 10.8 compatibility, and secure the upgrades before starting.

http://www.zdnet.com/dont-upgrade-to-os-x-10-8-mountain-lion-before-reading-this-7000001609/

What doesn’t work with Mountain Lion:
Any PowerPC application that relied on Rosetta for compatibility with the legacy code will not work on either 10.8 Mountain Lion or 10.7 Lion.  If you rely on legacy applications, you will either have to stay with OSX 10.6.8 or set up a dual booting drive arrangement so you can choose to boot with 10.6.  You can set up a dual boot system either by having two different hard drives, or by partitioning one hard drive into two partitions (NOTE: paritioning a drive will destroy all of the data and applications on it. Make and test a complete backup before proceeding.)

Setting up two partitions for dual booting http://osxdaily.com/2011/03/12/how-to-install-dual-boot-mac-os-x-10-7-lion-and-10-6-snow-leopard/

Reports from around the Web of applications that don’t work (yet) on 10.8
A good source for up to date ccompatibility information is Roaring Apps http://roaringapps.com/

 

Application and version that doesn’t work Version number required to work in 10.8
Abiword 2.4.x
ACDSee Pro 1.9
Adobe Creative Suite apps CS5 and earlier (certain CS5 apps work, some with issues) CS5.5 and above
ArchiCAD 15 and earlier ArchiCAD 16
Artlantis Studio 4.1 and earlier
Assassin’s Creed II
AutoCAD 2012 for Mac and earlier AutoCAD 2013 for Mac
Band-in-a-Box 2011
Barcode Pro 6.15
Battlefield 1942
Canon EOS Utility
Canvas X
Chessmaster 9000 1.1.3
Cisco VPN Client 4.9
Citrix ICA Clinet 10.00x
Corel Painter 12.0x
Filemaker Server v.11 and v.12
fliqlo
Garmin Map Update
Logitech Harmony Remote Software
MacTheRipper v.2.x  v. 4.x
Miro
Symantec PGP Desktop 10.x Symantec PGP Compatibilty page
 Vector Designer 1.7.0  Vector Designer 1.7.2 from the App Store
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Q. Should I upgrade the power supply in my computer?

If you are installing a new graphics card, you may be considering upgrading the Power Supply Unit (PSU) of your computer to support the card.

Graphic card manufacturers provide recommended minimum power supplies. These minimums already include their assumption of an average computer’s power requirements for motherboard, CPU, RAM, drives and fans. So when the stated minimum is 400W for example, it doesn’t mean that graphic card takes 400W, but that the card takes perhaps 150W and they have allowed 250W for everything else.

Many pre-built machines, from Dell, HP, Gateway and others, come with the absolute minimum power supply that will run the machine – from 180W to 250W.  These are inadequate for powering an upgraded video card, so the power supply will have to be replaced.

When replacing a power supply, you need to look at three things

  1. Physical compatibility
  2. Output power
  3. Connectors

Physical compatibility is whether the power supply will fit the case and match up with the mounting holes and fan vents.  Most tower computers have ATX standard power supplies, so the mounting holes and basic size will be standard, and any ATX power supply should work.  Watch out for machines whose PCI-e cards or CPU cooling are close to the back of the power supply.  Some ATX power supplies are longer than others front to back, and may conflict. If you have a machine with a tight layout, look for a short ATX PSU.

Measure the power supply size visible on the back of your machine. It should be approximately 6 inches by 3 1/2 inches if it is a standard ATX.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATX#Power_supply

If you have a small form factor, slimline or portable desktop machine, you may not have an ATX standard PSU.  This makes it much more difficult to find a suitable replacement PSU, and you may want to consider replacing rather than upgrading the machine.  Servers and rack-mounted machines use some different power supply standards such as EPS and FlexATX.

Power supply form factors http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supply-specifications-atx-reference,3061-4.html

Output power we have touched on already. The output of the PSU needs to be higher than the peak requirements of all of your components together, plus at least a 10% buffer for safety. More capacity in the power supply is never bad.  Keep in mind that the advertised output power is not always the actual available power, budget brands are somewhat notorious for over-advertising their product.  Well known brands are better at meeting their specs, and with reliable, clean power.

This website helps you calculate how many Watts you need http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp

Power supplies also have efficiency ratings, which measure the amount of power that is delivered to the PC vs. the amount that is lost to heat and inefficiency.  The 80PLUS ratings are for power supplies that are 80% efficient or better, there are Bronze, Silver, Gold and Platinum levels. The Gold rating means the PSU will be at least 87% efficient at 100% output http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_PLUS

There are differences between the Amps available on each output rail, but that is outside the scope of this article. Google for many debates on PSU specs, rail design and quality. http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supply-specifications-atx-reference,3061-2.html

Connections: the power supply has to have the appropriate connectors for your motherboard and peripherals. The standard ATX motherboard connector is a 20+4 or 24 pin connector. Then there is an additional 4 pin or 8 pin ATX12V connector to supply regulated power to the CPU.  For hard drives, you will need some SATA power connectors, and at least one 4 pin Molex peripheral connector for older drives and devices. A 4 pin floppy drive connector is usually included but less commonly used.

The connections for the video card(s) are important, they have to match what your video card requires.  These are called PCI-e Graphics (PEG) connectors, and carry 75 W each to the video card. There are 6 pin and 8 pin variations. Many video cards require 2 PEG connectors, so it you are installing a pair of video cards in SLI or Crossfire mode, then you will need four PEG connectors.  Look for a power supply that is SLI and or Crossfire certified if you are planning to use dual cards.

PEG power http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supply-specifications-atx-reference,3061-12.html

If you have a machine with dual CPUs, such as a Xeon server motherboard, then you may need an additional 4 pin or 8 pin ATX12V CPU power connector

One final thing to look at is noise.  A well built, efficient power supply with a large diameter 120mm or 140 mm fan will be quieter than a cheaper, hotter PSU with 80mm fans.  Some PSUs give sound ratings, but there aren’t any industry standards for reporting noise levels.

Reviews and ratings

Keep in mind that while there are a large number of brand names in the Power supply market, relatively few of them actually design and build their own products. Most of the building is done by contract manufacturers, and the design make be done in house or licensed from others.  For this reason, you cannot say that Brand X is better than Brand Y, you have to look at the individual models, or model lines, and research who makes them and what the reviews, owner feedback and testing reveal.

http://www.anandtech.com/tag/psu

http://compreviews.about.com/od/cases/bb/PSU.htm

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/psus/

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